Info need on Clayton Dewandre Brakes

On my 1936 Wide Body Bedford i have Vacuum brakes Type TV2/150RH i need help on how to service etc. Dave

Dedly
Gudday M8

Sme again
LOL

RE: i need help
YES U need all the help U can get!
n also with the brakes

LOL

Have been taken over by



Do U need parts ?
Or have U a problem ?

Where here 2 help the needy
n
not the greedy

LOL

cya

Dave, do you know Peter Morris? He's just finished a resto of a Super Hippo with those brakes and is pretty cluey anyway so might be able to help.

I realise the scale will be a bit bigger and the Leyland is more modern (!) but the principle's more or less the same. If you don't know him, give me a yell and I'll pass on his email and/or phone number.

Andy,

Peter Morris's new toy has Air brakes not Vacum like Dave is talking about.

My Thornycroft also has Clayton Dewandre brakes. But again like Peters are Air brakes not Vacum.

JB, interesting. I sold Peter a repair kit for the brakes. Goes to show how much I know about the brake set up compared to Dave's beast.

Given Peter's knowledge, Dave, it might still be worth asking him.

Deadly,

I have Clayton Dewandre vacuum brakes on my 1947 Leyland bus which I'm about to tackle. I've got a workshop manual with some information, but I sent over to Old Blighty and purchased a manual from here

www.wallagereprints.com/classiccars.htm#clayton

I'm just not sure what to do if the leather seals are buggered.

Steve

Dave, Steve

Ive just overhauled one for our club Albion and there not to bad to set up.
Honed vacuum champer with a ball hone. Made a new leather bucket with a male / female mold turned on a wood lathe.
Get some good quality cow hide and soak in water for a couple of days.
Place over male part of mold then push female over and pull up tight with a bolt through the middle. Make sure bold is true center of mold.
Leave to dry thouroughly (1 plus weeks ) then remove outer mold piece and reverse then bolt back together. Mount assemble in lathe with the bolt and spin up at slow speed. You can then trim outer edge of bucket true with a new razor blade while its turning. Under cut to create a good edge.
Reassemble on plunger. Works perfect.
Make sure you get all the mechanism parts within the servo assist linkage part of it back right during reassembly. Draw some sketchs of parts or use a book if you have when reassembling.
Dont forget to adjust servo opening valve on the outside of chamber when you get it back in and engine running. If its out of adjustment you will pick it up with crappy idling and very low or no manifold vacuum. This valve is under a little half round tin cover on the outside of the servo housing.

Barry

Dedly
GuddayM8

have U tried PBR
PBR stands for Patent Brake Replacements
th@ means they have supplied parts for other makes etc
worth a ringy thing
or ABS

cya

GM Diesel, thanks for the great advice. The ball hone you mention, is that the hone with lots of little flexible balls on it, what my mate refers to as a dunny brush? The outside diameter of the front wheel servo's measures close to 7" so I image I'm going to need a large hone.

Yep dunny brush hone is the one.
Barry