Where's all the projects?

After whacking on it with the puller on, release the puller and hammer some more, hopefully there it be enough movement to get it moving each way and breaking up the rust bond. Using a lot of water would help flush out the rust but would make a mess in the nice clean work space. Have used water many times and appears to break rust up as good or better than a lot of other penetrants. Plus it does not burn if using heat and is cheap.
Cheers Steve

Thanks Steve for the reply. Yes i have tried that method several times. I have applied all sorts of fluid, short of my own. Over the last couple of days i have been spraying with rust eater , both around the bolt holes and into the back of the rim. Today is a shoulder rest and soak day.

Inter Action
Gudday m8
Not sure what U have tried to remove rim from hub
try
put the bearin and nut back in hub n do up firm
let air out of tyre .... break the tyre bead awayr from lock rim ..... remove lockrim & tyre
grab oxy n apply a bit of warm around where the tyre rim seats against the hub
the Idear : the heat makes the larger item area grow .... a bit more than the hub
put your UBute puller on N C wot happens

the puller U made will have better effect with the FB Hammar if it is solid steel BTween the end of hub & where U B give it a knok

cya

Thanks Swishy. Yep . Tried lots of heat around the hub/rim area. That's with the inner bearing still in place. I did have a good suggestion from a friend. BUT! The vehicle is not mobile. Put the wheel nuts back on but leave them a couple of threads off from tightening the rim to hub. Then go for a gentle drive around the block. That would sort the sucker out. But the truck is not mobile? Always happy to listen to the more learned ones than me. I will keep you posted.

The only suggestion i have is to leave the weight of the truck on the wheel you want to remove (it would pay to have nuts on the studs but leave them loose). Then put your puller on and do it up real tight, then jack the opposite side wheel off the ground, then hit the centre of your puller with a FB hammer. I'd be surprised if something hasn't happened after 3 or 4 good snots.

Top stuff Dave_64, this blog is rapidly becoming the go to item. :lol:

Seems like we are all afflicted with the odd major issue like Inter-Action's stubborn wheel that won't come off, or simply the inability to do what we did easily forty or fifty years ago :blush:

Perhaps one of these Tonka's would do the rim removal for me. I will ask my son to bring one home on his next R&R.
One of my recent engine success stories. Lister 3 1/2 C.S. . CS being Cold Start where they have a variable combustion chamber for starting and running. Starts on high compression then open up a valve expose second chamber and lower compression. Hence this are a very long lasting and easy starting engine. Sorry about the camera angle. I must be still in the cranking pose. Sorry i messed up the Tonka photo. But you get the idea.

Having trouble with the photos. ?

Our 8hp CD Lister has a 2 stage lever that changes compression rations and as you say they start easy and run smooth.

Does that Old Fire extinguisher hold enough Water to Cool the Old Girl..??