International AR-110 Ute

I was going to ask you about your tailgate handles, then spotted your pic. They are much neater on the inside. I used interior door handles. Looking good.

I have cut off the uni-strut cross braces from two 4.5 metre 200mm mast sections that I used as the dolly to move my cab/body around when it was off the chassis.

These bits are going into the bin when it arrives in the next three weeks or so - If anyone wants them to make up their own dolly please PM me - I live in Perth.

Time to post up the latest on the AR-110 - When I tried to drive it on the road it ran like a pig and got red hot - the problem was that I hadn't set the base timing in diagnostic mode and the engine was six degrees retarded instead of ten degrees advanced. After setting the base timing to 10 degrees advanced everything fell into place.


Took the wheels off for a clean and paint

Off to the local tyre shop for some new tyres and a wheel alignment - Slight adjustment to the toe in and castor on the LH front and all is good. Also laser measured the wheel base for accuaracy and I am out by 1mm on the RH rear which is ok for me

The AR-110 is strapped on to the dyno and the fun begins - there are some nice toys being built in this workshop

Some random dyno screen shots when we were adjusting the AFR

PC screen shot as we are smoothing out the VE

Ended up with 205hp at the rear wheels and bucket loads of torque which is ok for an auto. I now have to retune it to pass the 5 gas test that is required to meet licensing requirements.....so we start over again

I noticed your IAT was almost 20degrees above ambient without a bonnet.

Looking at earlier photos I think you'll end up running very high IAT's and dropping quite a bit of power as the bonnet will force it to breathe hot engine bay air.

Gone are the days of set the points, whack on a timing light, twist the distributer a bit, and bingo off you go and if it stoped on you and if not out of fuel, lift the bonnet and fiddle with a few things and most likely you get it going
Colin

Zuffen
Yes the IAT was friggen hot but it doesn't rob much in the way of way of power. There a re a number of articles on the perceived benefits of a CAI but none have been proven that I have seen.
However, my air filter assy is crap and needs to be sorted. One of my sons mates reckons I need a dual plane manifold with a conventional airfilter but these things cost in the order of $1500 which is too dear for me.
I am thinking of building a customised air intake from the bonnet opening to the throttle body...all ideas will be considered so please provide some input here gents.

And yes Mairjimmy, a timing light and dizzy twist doesn't get you very far with fuel injected engines.
GB

Graham,

Check our Rover air filter assemblies.

They can be fitted "in line'' so you could run the air hose from the throttle body to the air filter assembly then to a source of cooler air.

I just Googled Rover air filter and looked at the images.

Received the engineering approval from the Department of Transport in the mail yesterday and booked the Inter in for an inspection over the pits today which it failed...

The inspector was happy with the standard of all work performed except for the brakes which appear to have a slightly hard pedal. Obviously the Gemini booster and XB master cylinder aren't doing the job well enough to pull up this 1.84 ton old girl so I have to fix the issue.

I am tossing a few ideas around and am considering the following:
1. Re-sleeve the master cylinder bore to 7/8" to match the Jag M/C bore dia and see if that works
2. As for # 1 above and fit a 7" dual diaphragm booster as well
3. Adapt a a Jag M/C to the Gemini booster
4. Adapt a Jag M/C to a 7" dual diaphragm booster

All other ideas are welcome

So it is good news and bad news I suppose but considering the drive train changes I am not too miffed that it failed the drive test.

As a side issue the examiner informed me that he used to work on International Trucks as an apprentice and it has been a long, long time since he has seen one of these. He seemed to enjoy driving it in todays unseasonally wet conditions and even though I have an Engineers report confirming the brake pedal force complies with standards he wanted the brakes to have that bit of nose down bite when you stab the brakes.

The good news is that I don't have any water leaks inside the cab
GB

well done was wondering how you were going with your project

if the diameter is reduced wouldnt the length of stroke have to be increased to shift the same amount of fluid ?????
Wouldnt that also mean the pedal then has to travel further ??
could you just fit a bigger brake booster diaphragm and see what happens
if you went half as big in diameter im pretty sure that gives twice the surface area which I feel would maybe give twice the assistance on the pedal

Paul

From memory you have an under floor m/c.

Do you have room for a bigger diameter booster under there?

My choice would be the Jaguar booster and m/c. This should give you identical brakes to the Jaguar and they should be well up to the task.

Hard brakes are usually (in power assisted brakes) caused by insufficient size or faulty booster. not saying the existing booster is faulty, but do think those little Gemini ones are to small for bigger vehicles. That said you see them used all the time on Hotrods.