AL110 restoration, the early stages

Wombat, Have a look at pages 14-15 here...

www.rms.nsw.gov.au/documents/roads/regis...ic-vehicle-clubs.pdf

It's List of Historic Vehicles Clubs in the ACT.
Make your self know to a few of them.& I'm sure they will be able to point towards a Good Independent Brake & Parts Shop who knows their way around Old Vehicles..

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wombat 46 wrote: Hi Paul,
So the steel lines rust inside and this can contaminate the fluid,
Where's the quick hook up for steel brake line?
was it fleabay?
Jim

I have got the pipe from brake places and hydraulic places in the past it comes in a straight length of I think 6 meters or 20 feet so I always put a extension ladder on and duct tape the pipe to the ladder because its so flimsy on its own
you will need a flaring tool for doing double flares a bending tool and cutter all cheap to buy and youll have them for ever





Paul

I concur with the wheel cylinder and rubber brake hose replacement. As mentioned wheel cylinders can be sleeved (about $100 each as per my experience last week). The rubber hoses are critical. I didn't realise how spongey mine were until I got new ones. Kudos to the forum member who suggested I do that (don't recall who alas).

Steel lines, whilst admirable to change, I'd not say are as critical, although others may disagree. The lines on Inters are 1/4" too - a bit thicker than the 3/16" that cars run. They are really hard to bend and shape by hand without heating them up or using the little pipe bender tools.

As to you parts numbers. That rotor looks like a GB603, so I'd hazard a guess that it is (Bosch book concurs) that would be correct, however who really knows what dizzy it has or what people have put in it over the years. The part number stamped on it doesn't correspond with anything I've found. The corresponding cap is a GB74 if it is the correct original dizzy.

Thank you for all your help and tips!
I will definately look up some like minded enthusiast
I had a good day and after about 1 hour in a parts store i have not visited in over 10 years, we managed to find the tune up parts we where looking for.
For anyone reading this later on i have added some pics of what i found, mostly from the Repco book










A few pics from yesteryear!

I also went to the brake resleavers and he was very helpful and keen to get me going,
I just have to strip down what i have and take it all over so he can match it up

thanks again for the help!
Jim

What year was that REPCO book Printed Wombat??
Bet It wasn't this Century, if those prices are any indication...

hayseed wrote: What year was that REPCO book Printed Wombat??
Bet It wasn't this Century, if those prices are any indication...

hayseed,
I have to go back there tomorrow i hope to collect the manifold gasket!
In the afternoon we are trying to get her running just on the ground to start,
if all is well we can put her in the chassis.
Jim

Well had an interesting time yesterday, a mate came over and we put all the parts back on the motor to get it running.
We had everything bolted up and hooked up the jump battery.
we pulled the plugs again and mixed some oil and fuel and squirted down the bores and wound her over to lube up he dry bores.
Well after putting the plugs back in and some fuel and a squirt of starter up, we wound some more.
The starter ran slow with the plugs in, so is not the best. The speed was tooo slow to get it to fire.

Can any one suggest if i can pull it open and see what might be wrong.
Jim

My first thought is the battery you are using is too small or too tired itself.

Are you using jumper cables or proper battery cables?
Jumpers can be suspect at times.

Blackduck59 wrote: Are you using jumper cables or proper battery cables?
Jumpers can be suspect at times.

As above, I find most of these won't crank anything over, might give another 50 amps (don't believe what the packet says!) Proper ones are made of something like welding lead.

If you have a multimeter (preferably not digital) clip it onto the starter side of the solenoid and see what your cranking voltage is. Anything above about 9 or 10 should be OK. (or is it still 6 volt and you're using a 6 volt battery? Those starters should fairly whiz over with a 12 volt battery.)
A quick check of the brushes and comm by removing the brush cover band should be easy enough. Make sure all the brushes are free in the holders and the comm bars are not all run together. How does she spin up with the plugs out?

Jarrod.