How to preserve my restored truck out in the open

I spray lanolin onto the back of my super spreaders. Dust sticks a bit, but very easy to clean off later. Usually fertilizer/lime/moisture = concrete- like layer stuck to stainless steel.

I use Exit Rust by Liquid Engineering, a local product. Water based, it's brilliant for hidden surfaces, panel joins, and inside boxed panels. The stuff is iron tannate, the same stuff as the dark blue tannins from poplar tree bark.

I dunno if any of you saw the story of the WW2 Russian tank dragged from the lake in Eastern Europe, a few years ago. It was virtually rust free, even after 50-odd years.
This was because the lake was surrounded by Poplar trees, and the bark fell into the water all the time, making a rust-preventative solution of the lake water.

With Exit Rust, all you do is thoroughly wet the surface with water, and spray the Exit Rust on, and let it dry. On hot days, you have to keep it wet until the iron tannate has reacted with the rust. I did a Landrover chassis over 13 years ago, and it's as good as it was the day I did it. Landrovers are buggers for rusting through the chassis box section, and Exit Rust is one of the few products that will penetrate to every corner of the box section.
The water is used to carry the iron tannate right into the full depth of any rust, it reacts with and converts the entire rust coating, it doesn't just coat the rust.

It's pretty expensive to buy off the shelf .. about $14 for a 250mm bottle, around $35 for 1 litre, and around $125 for 5 litres .. however, I bought a huge box of about 80 bottles of the stuff at a Govt auction, for about $200, about 15 yrs ago. The contents were worth over $2000 back then. I've still got enough left, to keep me in rust-proofing compound, until I'm about 116 ..

Exit Rust is only good for internal panels and joins, it's not suitable for paintwork, because it leaves a dark blue powdery finish when dry. However, all the rust problems I've ever had in vehicles or machines is corrosion starting in bulkheads, enclosed panels such as sills, and lipped panel joins such as the edge of doors and bonnets. This is where Exit Rust really shines .. it gets in between spot-welded sections, and joins, and penetrates right through. Rust will never start again in any form, in these areas, once you get Exit Rust in there.

www.liquideng.com.au/exitrust.html

I dunno if the stuff Greenie found is the same product, and swishy is half on the money about clever cockies... the shearing board is always white ant proof too.... but this bloke did something or added something so that it dried clean/clear. I am a fish oil user myself but you need to wait a while for it to dry... weeks...

the story made it to the best of Landline for what ever year it was....

/me

Hope piratin this post aint a hang n offence

RE JuanTak: WW2 Russian tank dragged from the lake in Eastern Europe

Wunder if this could/would/should B it?


img404.imageshack.us/img404/8639/tankrecoverywl6.jpg



Cya

[ch9787]

Hume, where in Vic or NSW (I'm assuming by your name) are you? Let us know which town you call home (or your nearest one) and a member might know of someone nearby who can help.

The Merc looks bloody good too, mate. Nice one.

Michaels of Donald Vic sold me this gear 5 or 6 years ago to paint onto the beam slides of our JCB telehandler. I think something similar was used in the 50s and 60s sprayed onto the underside of new cars. My re-collection is of my father having it done to a new Holden about that time. Definately not intended for that impressive Mercedes Benz but thought it might add to the general information.
Cheers Geoff