This is really about the old Super Loader, but as far as I can tell the Engine (or is it Motor) is identical to the AW6, and various other petrol or petrol kero Inter Tractors of that vintage.
And by my standards the engine is running fine but the old muffler I added about 10 years ago has fallen apart with all the excitement of the restart. In getting ready to plant a brand new old stock car muffler up top I bothered to have a look at the manifold and noticed a flap, like a choke flap in the neck of the manifold leading up to the exhaust & muffler. This has of course rusted into place, partly closed. Will it make any difference if I open it up.??? The old girl gets along OK if I nurse her, she struggles a bit getting off the mark in higher gears or loaded and up hill, but once the clutch is out and she is going she splutters along OK.
It is probable this engine came out of an agri Tractor as I believe the loader had at least a swept back muffler or an under muffler some how. The engine cover has been attacked with a can opener at some stage to get the exhaust through it.
Sarge, that’s not one of those flapper valves in the manifold to assist in rapid warm up, is it? Looks a bit like something similar in the old LeRoi petrol engines with the updraft carby , used to have a bob weight on them and relied on the volume of the exhaust gas rushing through it to keep it open when under full load. If so, should be free enough to open/close when required. BUT a WAG at best. Dave
Yep, what Dave and Swisho said. The idea is to warm up the intake manifold when the engine is cold or operating in very cold conditions or the carby will ice up. Some have a bobweight, some have a spring and some have a cable to the dash like a choke cable.
I'd rather have tools that I don't need, than not have the tools I do need.
Sarge, the W6 owner's manual says "the kerosene engine manifold is designed so the hot exhaust gases pass around the intake manifold and heat the incoming fuel mixture, resulting in maximum efficiency under all normal operating conditions. The manifold heat control valve has four adjustment positions: top notch, "HOT" position; two centre notches "INTERMEDIATE" positions; bottom notch "COLD" position."
The pic in the book shows the grub screw in the second to bottom notch (as yours is) for general operation. Second to top notch for light loads. Top notch for very light loads or extreme cold weather. Bottom notch for constant heavy loads.
Sarge what the others said we’ve got two AM farmalls petrol kero ran them on standard petrol after power kero got too expensive and too hard to get then unleaded interrow cultivating corn and sorghum no issues even on hot days
Ours are set in th second hole from bottom like yours
Must be the default setting so don’t shift it it might upset the engine management system
Seriously I’d say it would be seized up and probably end up breaking something trying to shift it
Sarge, what the others have said, thats a Kero manifold and you closed the flap to get enough heat into it to run on Power Kerosine, long gone now, the closest thing now is emolium emulsifier that is used to break down tar for road construction. If you run the old girl on Petrol all the time there is no harm at all removing the flap entirely. good luck, 2strokesrule.
Yep everyone is right on the mark to aid in heating the inlet manifold to vapourise fuel and run efficiently. The David Brown has one as well and is totally stuck where it is and there it will stay.
Even the old Holden grey motor had one of these flaps and was spring loaded so in theory as it heated up the bi-metalic spring would open the flap. Never did see one that worked as designed.