Fill's Bedford

Fill if you are sending to Adelaide will that be North East Road? Recently had some sleeves, some new wheel cylinders, drums skimmed and new oversize shoes machined to match and new hoses made. Happy with the service (dropped off in morning and picked up again mid afternoon) and price was reasonable - and I am a TA.

Fill
M80
I feel your pain
not sure if U mention it
Here goes

where exactly is the brake fluid leaking from

Bleed nipple ?
fluid pipe connection ?
or out the end of cylinder Bhind the rubber ?
elsewhere ?
is it the same on all cylinders ?

cya

§

Hi Swishy All cylinders bar one, all nipples, one join at the end of main cylinder. none of my joints. I bent all the brake lines my self, I put double flairs on all ends of brake lines no leaks there .

Hi Dodgeydude A brake place that is on North Road is were they are going

Thanks for every ones interest Cheers Fill

Fill,
I feel your pain.

Cut out the middle man. Go direct to repair workshops.

Somebody (several people) at each HCVCA meeting will be able to recommend places to get jobs such as brakes done. Otherwise ask here on the forum. There is a wealth of knowledge in the club. Just ask! Beware of second hand opinions. Make sure the person you listen to has actually used the place they recommend.

Good luck,
Morris.

Hi All,
A while back there was a post on stopping rust on a restoration until you get to it. I said that I was going to test two products Ankor Wax and Lanolin. The lanolin was out of a spray can it is called Lanox I put each product each end of a mildly rusty piece piece of steel and left it in the weather for about four months. I did not put any thing in the middle. I found that Lanox was good for about a month. Then it took a backward step and and became rustier than the steal that did not have any thing on it. This is a photo of the results

100_2918 by fill quinn , on Flickr
I hope you find this of interest Cheers Fill

Hi all Doing a bit, while I am waiting for my brakes to come back. I had a length of used commercial aluminium sliding door track.I drilled counter sunk the holes for the bolts and gave it to friend to fill up the old fixing holes. When I got it back he not only filled the holes he polished it

100_2922 by fill quinn , on Flickr

100_2925 by fill quinn , on Flickr

100_2932 by fill quinn , on Flickr

And screwed the boards down. Cheers Fill

100_2933 by fill quinn , on Flickr

Hi all.
When I was younger I had and older car that had miles per hour. ( MPH) It was not to bad back then we only had 60 80 and 100 kilometres per hour (KPH) I think. I used to have a piece of paper with the conversions stuck to the dash board. This time I am going up market with this. Also I would have to have a bigger piece of paper with 5 10 40 50 60 75 80 90 100 and 110

100_2934 by fill quinn , on Flickr

Fill is that a new speedo or a new face for the old speedo. Way back when metric was new, new paper faces were readily available for most speedo's I have been thinking I should do that to mine... don't care about the odometer... I just record the miles. :dry:

Hi Sarge,
I was wondering if any one was reading my posts. It is a complete new speedo, it's a GPS one, and I am going to cut a hole in my dash for it.
Some of them can be mounted on top of the dash, I have seen a few that are digital that are about the size of a half packet of smokes sitting on dash boards, at truck shows. Ebay sells them for about $ 45.00. You can even get one that shines up on your wind screen. There was two that I liked, one went up to two hundred KPH, the one that I have sent away for goes up to 120 KPH. I think my truck will have only a top speed of 90 KPH,and that's down hill. It has the same size clock face, but it is easier to guess the speeds because in between the numbers has bigger gaps. I have been told GPS is very accurate. Thanks for your interest .
Cheers Fill