Inter D1610 4X4 Info please

cheers gents...
Internal (star wheel) adjuster on each shoe. They will both move one click tighter then back one click, almost without effort. I can't get them to move further and I can't get them to undo.....resistant to walloping (already looked damaged when I started)
I didn't think of the cylinders being fully returned, but maybe just maybe, if they are all stuck together they will go off as one piece I.E all works inside the drum...?

I'm getting keen for it to go. after I dragged it bodily off the truck with a loader I tried to drive it backwards in an attempt to "unwind" the transfer case and the self-energising of brakes. Well; with both wheels on one side stuck it dragged itself at 45 degrees about 40m until I hit a soft-enough part of the paddock. Horse old truck! I reckon it will be fun when sorted- Just hope the vibration warning can be got around enough to make it pleasant over long distances.
Peter

Peter, just thinking outside the square ... are you sure the problem is with the hydraulic wheel cylinders? If the truck had been parked up for a while with the handbrake on, it may be that the brake shoes are frozen to the drums via the handbrake controls, irrespective of the condition or position of the wheel cylinders. (And I'm assuming here that the Inter 1600 had a mechanical handbrake rather than air). Are the handbrake linkages free at the back-plate?

Peter - Those style of adjusters corrode in the threads, and it always pays to coat them with Never-Seize on re-assembly.
I would be spraying the threads with some "Break-Free", then trying some modest heat on the body of the adjuster, where the threads are, using a small oxy tip.
Heat breaks the rust bond better than anything, and some penetrant initially, also helps.

I think you'll find that those adjusters can be purchased from ABS Brakes as an off-the-shelf component .. so I'd check on that, and if they are, I wouldn't be too concerned about having to destroy them to get the hubs off.
Most braking components are built by Bendix, Wagner-Lockheed, WABCO, and a couple of other companies, and the truck and equipment manufacturers just purchased them from these brake component manufacturers.

It's possible the pistons are seized in their bores. I find this a common problem, particularly if water has found its way into the wheel cylinders.
Brake fluid absorbs moisture from the air constantly, anyway, so there's always some water present in the fluid. When the brakes aren't used for a lengthy period, the wheel cylinders rust up.

Bugly - the D1610 Inter uses a driveline-mounted, independent drum handbrake .. not an arrangement that uses the back brakes, operated by cable, as numerous vehicles do.

The worn splined slip-joints can only be cured by machining off the old slip joints, and welding in new ones.
Verriers in Baywater or Veem in Canning Vale are the two main tailshaft repair crowds. Verriers are a smaller operation, you may find them better.
My best mate was Verriers tailshaft repairer and balancer for many years, when Verriers were in Brown St, East Perth.
All the original (founding) Verrier brothers are dead, the business is now run by one of the sons, Craig.

Update 2:
The wheel-cylinder retaining studs undid easily and pushed-in out of the way. The studs in the adjusters undid but I cannot push the adjusters away from the back-plate. rage. The shoes are stuck fast to the drum and the whole will not turn at all. I've even blocked the opposite wheel and removed tyres from the side i'm working on - I can torque the axle enough to move the springs but the drum won't move. Next effort is borrow a hot axe, cut a slice out of the back-plate then cut out an adjuster or shoe.
Wish me luck....
Peter

Be a bugger if it's the diff that's locked up! (or bearing?)
Is it LH thread on the left side? (the adjuster)

Hi Peter.
Reading your posts with interest.
I am currently working a C1600 4X4 as a mobile workshop servicing earthmoving gear. Started with the original 6-281 petrol engine with the original 4 speed box.....this was slow!!! Changed up to a 5 speed overdrive box fitted to the petrol engine, this did improve things a bit. Just before last Christmas the old engine cracked the exhaust manifold,(Again!!), so I spat the dummy and spent the Christmas break plus more time fitting a Perkins 6-354 diesel engine with the 5 speed O/D box behind it. It all bolted in easily, I was lucky enough to be able to buy an ABD180 with a factory fitted Perkins, so I parked the 2 side by side and proceeded with the changeover. I am now running with the original 4X4 diff with a ratio of 6.17-1, and with the 5 speed box, and still using the original transfer box giving me high and low range.
Travelling at road speed of around 90kmh (it will go faster, just that I feel this is a comfortable speed for the engine) I am getting consistently 14 to 15 miles per gallon, which equates to 19litres per 100 klm, or 5klm per litre. I am running on near new 8.25 X 20 tyres and my plan is that when these are replaced I will fit 10.00X20 tyres, they are slightly bigger in diameter and therefore should give me more miles per gallon. I hope to get the old dear up to around 18 miles per gallon which I reckon will be good considering I am carrying all my tools, Hiab crane etc,etc. All this and I still have power to spare to put a caravan behind.............
On the down side, parts for the 5 speed boxes are getting hard to get, I am currently chasing an input shaft and synchro unit for 2nd/3rd gear for mine. I also find the gearboxes noisey when travelling, so need bigger speakers for the radio!!!
Anyhow, all the best with your project.....it will be worth all the challenges!!

Hey Peter, any progress on this one? I'm thinking that I would love to have a sticky beak next time I'm down your way.

Update jan 2013.
After attempts to use heat to separate shoes from drum, I've finally thought a little more clearly.... I pilot-drilled the shoe anchor-pins. Tomorrow I will drill them out larger till I remove the whole pin diameter. I don't have a diagram and haven't pulled the other side but experience of similar aged designs tells me that will let the shoe float. In answer to Ron's earlier post about removing the internal adjuster: I cut away backplate from the adjuster slot but still could not see how I could remove the adjuster and change the pressure on the end of the shoe.
I'll report on progress. Visitors welcome madashec
Peter

farm9.staticflickr.com/8097/8401377910_2e2cb5e2bf_c.jpg

Finally worked out photos! My troubled D1610.

Brake photos...

farm9.staticflickr.com/8086/8401375326_accf91798f_c.jpg

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showing back where i have drilled out middle anchor bolt and started on other at bottom.
Peter

PETER
Pull out axle and outer bearing from hub then get fence post
and hit hub with end of post a good jar front and back on stud end of hub but dont hit studs ,may come free
peter