Elect tricky stuff

Like the idea of soldering them! As you say Bugly the solder is nice and soft would squash down nicely. And give nice connection. Also less likely to tarnish which common problem with copper wires!

Best to get a large soldering iron. With a large tip. So you have plenty of heat and can transfer the heat quickly. I have found more likely to melt insulation with small irons as you have to hold them on for ever to get enough heat and then still likely to get a dry connection.

Not sure what size but wouldn't use anything under 30W iron for light connections etc. Bigger iron would be needed for heavy work.

In the end you want a strong connection with as much strength and surface area between the two surfaces. And much preferred to be like one with full contact and lots of strength! Such as soldered.

Best way to use those crimp terminal with a hole in them is to pull the plastic thing off and solder them on. Crimps are one step up from Scotchlocks, which are a long way down the ladder, so it's not saying much.

Spot on Cam....

And when you buy a soldering iron,
Don't stuff about..
Buy the biggest one in the Shop......

We probobly solder together a couple of hundred jions a week. We use little torches that run on Lighter gas, just put the flame on the wire and the solder on the other side, it's almost instant. No good for fiddly electronics, but real good for soldering wires together on trucks. Then a bit of heat shrink over the top.

Bugly, here's an interesting fact, it is illegal to solder the ends of the wires and then put them in a screw terminal when domestic electricity is concerned because they recken the solder can crush and the terminal come loose. If you look at domestic power they actually use these little crimps that go over the end of the bare wire.

On the trucks though I put a bit of solder on the end of the wire before I put it in a screw terminal.

Yeah, that is what I have been doing, put off the plastic bit,soldering the wire into the lug on with a big electric soldering iron and then put heatshrink over it.

Pete

Be careful or Cam will employee you as an apprentice.

Trevor

LOL, don't know that Pete would want to work for me.

Based on the standard of workmanship I have seen coming out of there Cam, it would be a privilege. However I am a bit long in the tooth to be starting out on the tools now.

Generators produce their maximum output around 12 to 18 hundred revs depending on the application,so a small pulley wont hurt being its a truck,if youve changed your Regulator and Coil thats about all you have to do.
The starter will spin real quick,some can handle it some cant,so have 12v a spare.
Solder your connections.
Cheers Ray

Pete, I did the same thing to my O Bedford, changed the pulley to reuse the belt, keep it same size belt anyway.

Reg and coil changed but after a long day carting hay the thingo in the dizzy went... capacitor comes to mind... was told it needed to be different to what was there and sold me the right new one... did heaps more hay that season & still goes (or did... water troubles now) Did not find any pre-smoked wiring

One of our Guru's will have some good advice on this I am sure.... 12 volts on the starter are not a problem.

/me

I think I do need to change the capacitor but to what? Vaguely remembering that if the capacitor isnt the right value it will burn metal from one side of the points to the other.
Have got a new Bosch SU12R coil but no idea what ballast resistor or capacitor I should run with it.