Elect tricky stuff

Pete take that coil back and get a std 12volt coil no resistor it will be a a lot easier to fit than trying to set a resistor type
cheers Max

Condenser is what your thinkin' if your going to run a ballat resistor, the toyota coronas have a good one in them, might be a bit thin at the wreckers nowdays though

If the coil indicates it needs a ballast resister then you must fit one.

But essentially they can be simple to wire up. Essentially run the ign wire to one side of the ballast resister. And the other to the coil. That should be enough!

Can make it more complicated by additional wire from coil to the start circuit. But be aware if you wire it wrong or don't have spare circuit your starter may operate on the ignition circuit!

Essentially there are two coils available for 12volt. With and without ballast resister. Without are rated at 12 volt continuous. With is not! With are say a 10v continuous. When starting the starter pulls lots of amps so voltage drops so during cranking use the coil direct from battery. Then during charging use the resister to stop the coil from overheating from to much volts.

I have been running a ballast resister and coil in the AB for some time without issues. Did this as I figured coils needing ballast resister going to be around longer.

As for the condenser. Could be correct need a different one. As you might blow up the old one then stuff the points. Best thing would be take the old condenser to a place like auto surplus as they are very helpful. And explain it to them. They will then find a correct one to fit I'm sure.

Oh in answer to your question about what ballast resister to use? Just ask for one! All the same. But I do stand to be corrected.

I will visit the wreckers tomorrow and get a couple. Found a reference on the net somewhere that the coil should run on about 9 volts ( apart from starting) .
Bought the resistor type coil because I was going to get clever and feed direct from the starter motor during cranking. But this vehicle doesn't have a starter solenoid, ie the starter switch is mechanically worked, so as JB has pointed out this would result in the ignition circuit trying to operate the starter motor.

Could be better to buy one. (only need one) From memory they aren't very dear. Prob with old ones is they could be broken or have issues during use.

Could still wire it up. Just put a relay say a spst relay like a horn relay should do I think in the solenoid line. So when cranking the relay is active then wire the relay switch contacts between the +ve and the coil. This will isolate the two circuits.

But seriuosly doubt you would relay need it. With poor or low output battery or bad frost then very necessary. But never had a problem getting the AB running!

Hey Pete, a 12V ciol needs 12 volts, a resistor ciol is back around 7V I think. at 9V you will have a weak spark.

Don't overlook any electric gauges in your dash cluster ,they may need some form of voltage reducer once you convert to 12 vOlts

Will try and get the right resistor for the Bosch coil, if it is 7volts I might has well have used my 6v one with a resistor. Only one electrical gauge to worry about, the petrol gauge, and i have been told 150 ohm resistor is right here.

If it didnt have a ballast as a 6 volt,it doesnt need one now,if it did use one, use a Valiant 1.2 ohms,all the ballast does is stabilise the voltage at the coil and hold it constant so it doesnt fry itself,it should have 12 volts or thereabouts at the coil.
Condenser values are measured in Microfarads the voltage is not important.
Dodges,Chryslers are straight forward,your only going from 6 to 12 volt,theyre unique!
If it had a resistor coil,use a resistor coil,if it didnt dont.