Thinking about putting wide steer tyres on 4x4. Trying to work what size tyre?
The rears are 11r22.5. I don’t know what size for front as the rims 11.75x22.5.
I have seen a 4x4 with this set up but I didn’t take notice of what size the fronts were.
I have looked at tyre charts but find it a bit confusing.
I've been out of the game way too long to answer that for you but a couple of minutes with the local tyre dealer will show you all the options and make sure you stand ny choices alongside a standard 11R22.5 to keep the same OD otherwise your ratios and speeds will be out of whack.
Cheers Cobba & Cobbarette
Coopernook, The Centre of our Universe.
The following user(s) said Thank You: projectinter
Far as I know all tubeless 22.5 s have the same rolling diameter......but if its used in dry beachsand,it gets an incredible grip on the tyres,and really loads up the drivetrain....so when you let the pressure down to 12 or 15psi,thats the rolling radius thats important......its quite easy to break axles or transfer cases if things are matched.,and that includes load........actually load dictates pressure ,you can run on sand with 8 ton load and 60 psi,unload ,and the wheels just chatter,you have to reduce the pressure.........wetsand in the tide zone is just like concrete,until you hit a patch of quicksand,and your truck becomes just another set of bones half buried in the beach.
On a four wheel drive or front wheel assist farm tractor tyre pressure is used to fine tune the inter axle ratio
The front axle needs to be driving quicker than the rears for these tractors to move efficiently in the paddock under heavy loads
I can feel the difference between when its right and not right
It is as little as a 5 PSI in pressure change and what a difference it makes
A much smoother ride
Pulls like a train
And ueses less fuel
From memory the front wheels should be trying to move ar between 5 and 10 percent quicker than the rear wheels
I know this wont make sense to people that jave only driven their 4x4 ute around but on a farm tractor under heavy draught loads it makes a huge difference
Your better to die trying than live on your knees begging
The following user(s) said Thank You: Lang, Southbound
You are right. Maximum traction is at around 10% slip both driving and braking.
ABS are efficient because they aim for that figure, stopping in half the distance of fully locked wheels. The fabulous braking throwing you forward in your seat in a 100 ton aircraft with relatively tiny wheels is achieved by this 10% slip. Needless to say aircraft tyres do not last too long.
There are many tests by tyre companies and vehicle manufacturers illustrating this phenomena.
Wider tyres don't necessarily give you better ability on soft sand. Old bias tyres of equivalent size are nearly always better than radials. Radials let down produce a football shape surface area which means the wall of sand in front of the tyre gets wider and you are bulldozing a big chock in front.
Bias tyres remain basically the same width but produce a long narrow surface area (same coverage as the radials) so they do not have to push a big wall of sand. Also having a sausage shape pressure pattern the back end of the tread is working on harder rolled sand - the short round radial shape does not offer this benefit.
Where are you driving and what are you using the vehicle for?
Tyre pressure is EVERYTHING. Tubeless tyres have their limits and about 18 psi is about the limit before you start to risk the tyre coming away from the rim. If you are really stuck on one slope 12 psi is not out of the question with a tube tyre. Needless to say walking pace is the most effective at those pressures.
Many , many times I have walked old military vehicles with their skinny but seriously deflated tyres past stuck Landcruisers , modern Jeeps and Landrovers who hit the bottom of the slope valve bouncing and suspension bouncing.