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AB151
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1 year 1 month ago #244163
by Inter-Action
AB151 was created by Inter-Action
Could someone please tell me if it is possible to replace the valve stem seals , while head is in situ. The truck has the Gold 240 engine , with sloping valves. We used to be able to do one cylinder at a time when the cylinder is on TDC. Any help regarding this and where i would get the seals. Dave
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1 year 1 month ago #244167
by 180wannabe
Replied by 180wannabe on topic AB151
I don't know anything about doing the job, but Wagga Tractor and Truck Parts list the seals on ebay for $45 inc postage.
Brett.
Brett.
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1 year 1 month ago #244170
by Inter-Action
Replied by Inter-Action on topic AB151
Thanks John. It appears that there is a shroud thingy INSIDE the spring . Its not a full circle but looks like it may help keep the springs in place , as in going up and down over the shroud. Pretty sure there is a seal that fits inside this shroud and over the valve stem. I will have another look tomorrow. I was hoping to replace seals w/o removing the head? And correct me or not.
The clearances are done hot with motor running? Could be fun.? While i have your attention. The diff ratio is 6.37 according to pinion shaft. I have a
C1500 and was wondering 1/ Will the diff centre fit. 2/ Cant make much sense of pinion numbers. Hope you can read. 10 - 43 ?
The clearances are done hot with motor running? Could be fun.? While i have your attention. The diff ratio is 6.37 according to pinion shaft. I have a
C1500 and was wondering 1/ Will the diff centre fit. 2/ Cant make much sense of pinion numbers. Hope you can read. 10 - 43 ?
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1 year 1 month ago #244171
by jeffo
I’ve done valve stem seals in situ, not your particular engine though, much more modern stuff.
You need to make up a compressed air fitting to screw into your spark plug hole.
Set the cylinder you’re working on a TDC, then put her in top gear. This is to ensure the crank doesn’t turn for any reason.
Pressurise the cylinder from your air compressor at max pressure. Make sure it stays pressurised or you’ll drop the valve.
Snap On make a brilliant bit of gear for removing and replacing collets.
Give the valve head a tap or two with hammer to loosen the collets. Then just sit the tool over the valve stem, push the valve spring down and as the valve is held up by compressed air, the collets will release and then an inbuilt magnet grabs them. Spring lifts up and you’re ready to tackle the seal.
The same tool is used to refit the collets. Dead simple.
Might pay to do a YouTube search showing how to use the tool.
Last engine I did was a 2JZ. They’re notorious for the factory seals going hard as wood in nothing flat.
24-valves so you need to think about firing order in order to speed up the job.
You need to make up a compressed air fitting to screw into your spark plug hole.
Set the cylinder you’re working on a TDC, then put her in top gear. This is to ensure the crank doesn’t turn for any reason.
Pressurise the cylinder from your air compressor at max pressure. Make sure it stays pressurised or you’ll drop the valve.
Snap On make a brilliant bit of gear for removing and replacing collets.
Give the valve head a tap or two with hammer to loosen the collets. Then just sit the tool over the valve stem, push the valve spring down and as the valve is held up by compressed air, the collets will release and then an inbuilt magnet grabs them. Spring lifts up and you’re ready to tackle the seal.
The same tool is used to refit the collets. Dead simple.
Might pay to do a YouTube search showing how to use the tool.
Last engine I did was a 2JZ. They’re notorious for the factory seals going hard as wood in nothing flat.
24-valves so you need to think about firing order in order to speed up the job.
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1 year 1 month ago #244174
by cobbadog
Cheers Cobba & Cobbarette
Coopernook, The Centre of our Universe
Working on more play time.
I have never done it but would a length of sash cord stuffed into the cylinder hold the valvs up well enough to do the job. Which ever way you decide to try and if one fals it will be head off anyway. When I recently did the ehad on that old Lister engine I soaked the copper gasket in water to swell it back p a bit before reuse. I let it dry out for a day before refitting if that idea helps. Setting valve clearances while the engine is at operating temp and running is a bloody nuisance. I set them 0.002" widert cold then recheck once warmed up. Usually fairly close.
Cheers Cobba & Cobbarette
Coopernook, The Centre of our Universe
Working on more play time.
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1 year 1 month ago #244176
by JOHN.K.
The shroud thingys are actually surge dampers.........whether they are essential of not,I dont know ..........The motors have very strong small diameter valve springs ,and IMHO ,unless the guides are already cut for seals ,you wont fit them..........Ive probably done hundreds of IH sixes......but the memory fades ........and Ive scrapped most of the IH stuff that was at Willawong.
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1 year 1 month ago - 1 year 1 month ago #244177
by 180wannabe
Replied by 180wannabe on topic AB151
I can't make any sense of the part number on the pinion either. It looks to me like 116700R2, which i cannot locate in AA, AB, C, or D parts books.
116 889 R92 is GEARSET, RING AND PINION, 4.30 TO 1 RATIO -43-10 TEETH, C1500.
And 116 706 R92 is DIFFERENTIAL, ASSY., 4.30 TO 1 RATIO -C1500.
Maybe 116700R2 is the part number for the pinion itself, but the parts book doesn't break it down that far, and only gives a part number for the "gear set" to be supplied together?
Brett.
116 889 R92 is GEARSET, RING AND PINION, 4.30 TO 1 RATIO -43-10 TEETH, C1500.
And 116 706 R92 is DIFFERENTIAL, ASSY., 4.30 TO 1 RATIO -C1500.
Maybe 116700R2 is the part number for the pinion itself, but the parts book doesn't break it down that far, and only gives a part number for the "gear set" to be supplied together?
Brett.
Last edit: 1 year 1 month ago by 180wannabe. Reason: add detail
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1 year 1 month ago #244178
by jeffo
Cobba that’s right. You have to keep concentrating, one slip and you’ve wasted work and it’s head off anyway.
In the olden days, I read how blokes would stuff suitable sized rope into the combustion chamber. Seems like a lot of work, compressed air is much easier so long as no one turns off the compressor!
In the olden days, I read how blokes would stuff suitable sized rope into the combustion chamber. Seems like a lot of work, compressed air is much easier so long as no one turns off the compressor!
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1 year 1 month ago #244179
by JOHN.K.
The IH small sixes have large valve clearance 023-027 .......the reason being quietening ramps on the camshaft ,and you need to be careful to get the tappet on base circle ,or you end up with a clattery motor with excessive clearances.
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