Hotting up an Inter 6

Guyz

RE: MPG

Dont forget to figure in;
the loose nut B Hind the wheel http://t0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcSQGBFEc5F792j5XxXB3clcUwuwSJbR5uLc9KLa3gqsVr30t8E&t=1&usg=__4YDIpAeP-ezBi1JcmdD9ustHaQI=

LOL

Cya
[ch9787]

Consider fitting Electronic Ignition to it, if it already isn't fitted.

Hey Swishy, it was probably the loose nut that caused the engine to poop itself in the first place.
She was running like a dream at 110 on the highway and had been for 300Ks. That's when it was getting 13+MPG too.

bparo.
I've got 2 of these C1300s. This one as a dual cab with an 8' tray, the other is a single cab with a 14' banana back.
I would think they would both be within a few hundred kilos of each other in weight and similar in wind resistance.
Both are running 16/750s although the dual cab is slightly larger in diameter (by 5" circumference. Measured both).
It also has a 4.30 diff ratio (just went and checked it. Saves me changing it now) compared to to the single cab which is running a 4.88. All up by my calculations it should run 520RPM slower at 100Ks.
The dual cab gets 13MPG. The single cab gets 8 with the same loose nut behind the wheel. Got me buggered

VK3UAO.
Did International make an electronic dizzy in any of there 6 cylinder engines or are you talking about an aftermarket conversion? I havn't seen either before but should imagine there would be an aftermarket set up available somewhere.

I know an electronic ignition is more reliable but would it actually increase horsepower???

Cobber, I'm not sure if they were a factory fitted item at any point, but if not, most distributor places should be able to convert it over.

The electronic ignition alone probably won't gain you horse power (depends on the condition of your current dizzy and state of tune) , but it would be a good improvement to efficiency if you intend to get the most out of what you have (by your carb upgrade and possible head work/incresase of compression)...

Cheers
Stu

There isn't much piont in spending thousands on a petrol engine and then leaving pionts in it, unless you want it authentic. New pionts today wear the rubbing block within weeks which alters the timing and the tune up. Ussually $2-300 will have it changed over to electronic. Even better, put a diesel in it. You'll probobly buy a rusty Isuzu for 1/2 of what it will cost to do that engine up, biggest problem then will be making a gearstick work.

or a perkins (turboed of course) bolted up to a 5 speed inter or dodge box should be easy ..but if $$ are tight stay with the 6 cyl petrol .. the inter v8s in trucks are attrocious on fuel ..best i ever got was 6-7mpg ..the 6cyls were much more thrifty . .

When I first answered this post I mentioned you would have to consider what fuel you a going to use
Now I

i agree lpg is the way to go ... just up the compression of a old petrol motor .. bigger carb ..bigger exhaust ..then the gas should give better performance than petrol ever did..

Well thanks to all that have contributed to this topic. There's a lot of knowledgeable folk on this forum and, although they might have differing opinions of what some engines can realistically achieve, I have taken it on board.

Ian. I get 4.6 KPL, or 21.7Litre per 100K out of my petrol truck and a measly 2.7KPL or 36 Litres per 100 out of my gas truck. I am going to do a run in it using petrol only and see if it gets much better so I can decide if it's the engine or the fuel that is the problem.
Personally I think it will be a fair bit different on petrol but only testing will really tell.

I have taken on board what has been said and have a reasonably firm plan as to which way I am going to go with it now.

Get the motor up and running doing what is required to make it work. Full gasket set, new main and big end bearings and a crank grind. While I am at it I'll match port and flow the head and manifolds and deck the block to increase compression to somewhere up around 8 or 9:1.

I am hoping to get away with new rings and a hone of the bore but if I need to go oversize then so be it. Will cross that bridge when I come to it.

On the outside I will fit a set of extractors and modify a factory manifold to accept a WW stromberg. I have calculated that I need a 325 cfm carby and the WW Stromberg is rated at 320. Close enough.

Finally, although not straight away I will get it converted to dual fuel. With the government rebates being offered these day I have been told you can convert for about $800 to $1000.
As for the future of automotive fuels, well I will do some research on E85 and see what will best suit it's likings before I get the machine work done.
As it' a new fuel to us here in Oz there won't be a lot of info out there yet but it's been around in other countries for awhile now and there should be some info on it out there on the WWW.
Hopefully it will like the same things as LPG. Higher compression and advanced timing. Fingers crossed.

Will let you know what I find out.

The 281 was a cheaper version of the 282, although both engines are the same size. I think most of the differences were in the head and if you have to do a rebuild it might be better to get hold of a 282 head.