Hotting up an Inter 6

I'd be a little cautious going to gas.

The gummint are planning to keep right on bumping up the excise on it.
'nutha few years it could well be the same price as petrol (?) As a rule of thumb, you'll use about 15% more gas than petrol, more if you re-tune for respectable power output. so once LPG gets to about 75% the price of petrol, it'll just be a waste of time and money.

My Terrier (V8 petty) does about 10-12 mpg on the 91 octane, and the same on E10, (for up to 10cents per litre cheaper)
But with 98 or 100 octane it'll run 15-16 mpg. bottom line ... high octane is cheaper

im lucky to get 20mpg in my P76 (terrier motor)

There is some very ineresting reading here
Ian
e-85.com.au/

www.flexfuelkit.com.au/articles/3/1/E85-...nol-Myths/Page1.html

... my P76

pix man pix!!

my favouritest car!

got 2 of them a super (everyday car rough as guts) ..and a targa in the shed

Ok. I have heard it asked on everyone elses posts over the time I have been here but only just learned how to do it in the past few weeks.
Here's a pic of what I got.


I started a bit of a father/sons bonding with the strip down of this one. Have got my 2 boys (14 and 15) working on it while I supervise from my workshop.
Came across something unusual when I got in close and personal with it today.

All the paint has blistered off the entire front of the block. The water pump seems to be effected as well.
Couldn't honestly tell you if it was like this or not when I picked it up from Sydney. Could possibly have been previous damage

Have taken the waterpump off. It appears to be in a servicable condition. It looks like it has been replaced in recent time. No leaks from the seals, impeller is in exellent condition and no build up of scale or anything inside at all.

What do you make of it. I know the motor got internally hot soon before it pooped itself but to have this only at the very front of the engine seems a little odd to me.

Seems unusual that the inlet side of the waterpump has got so hot. It should be pulling in cooler water than the outlet.

Should have the motor out over the weekend and get inside for a better look. Gotta get the harmonic balancer off before I get too far in so I can see whats happening behind that tin timing cover as well.

Seeing as the head hasn't lost much paint, I would tend to think that a coolant leak from the by-pass hose has caused the paint to lift rather than being heat related.

the paint looks quite bright, could just be a bad paint job with a pressure pack can over oily surface.

I see that E85 has had a mention in this post. Having had a couple of years experience with this fuel there are a few things to consider. We have found that it gets a molasses type built up on the injectors which would occur somewhere in a carby application. Also the consumption rate is about 30% more meaning that pumps need to be upgrade and jetting would have increase. Most late produced rubbers are not attacked by the fuel all though the nylon pump filter seems to have a texture change. The fuel also performs well on increased comp ratio the octane rating from the pump I believe is about 104 -108 but this is only hear
Geoffb

Got the motor out today. tried yesterday but couldn't get the gearbox over the crossmember and under the floorline without taking the top off the gearbox. Wasn't sure if I would have got it then even and didn't want to risk getting shyt in the box either.

Done a compression test before taking it apart. All seemed good with the 6 ranging between 150 and 168.

Final result. Spun the bigend bearing on number 6. It was gone so bad that when I took the caps apart both bearing halves were on the same side one on top of the other.

Block is standard bore, no lip and still signs of crosshatching evident so that's a bonus. Pistons look in pretty good nick as well. Will let the engine reconditioner determine if it will get away with a hone and new rings or needs a rebore.

Cam looks in good shape, so does the head. Will set it up tomorrow and fill the chambers with petrol and see if any of the valves leak (unless someone has a better way of checking ).

Have got one price on parts already. There's a fella on Ebay that has new pistons for $230 + freight. He can do me a full gasket set for $200, main bearings in STD size for $180 and bigends in STD .010 or .030 for $170 + $30 freight.
That's $580 for gaskets and bearings or about $830 if I need pistons to go with it. Pretty reasonable I would have thought concidering how old these engines are.

Not sure what Morey Warnock will charge me for there reconditioning work. Will drop the block, crank, pistons and rods into them on Monday morning and get them to check it over for a quote.

Can get a set of extractors from my mate at Bob's exhaust centre for $390. I'll fit em up myself when I put the motor back in and get Bob to finish the system off if I can't get it match up myself.
Havn't been able to find a WW stromberg yet but Bob recons his mate Mooey will have one sitting around for sure. Just need to remind him to ask.

All in all I'm looking on track to getting it back on the road and registered by the end of October with a reco engine and a dulux birthday of the engine bay.


Got a question to ask of anyone that's ever pulled an engine from one of these or a similar Dodge.
Can I get the motor back in with the gearbox already on it??? Would be so much easier if I could set it all up in the shed.

Cheers

P.S. No signs of overheating in the front of the motor so I reckon the paint peeling of is like you suggested and just poor preparation when last done.