Tangye engine

About 1906, 9 Horse Power four stroke hot bulb compression ignition.

The side shaft drive gear, pulley has to come off to get to it.

The main and big end brass bearings were gone, turned up steel spacers to suit brass we had which will be sized and split.

Making a big end bearing block from two pieces of 2 inch square, cutting it with a cut off disc has hardened the ends and it takes the corner off my high speed steel tool bit, suggestions welcome, maybe a tungsten tip?

Bearing block which mates to compression block and
the suction inlet valve still stuck, have tried hammer then this in press, will try heat.

Cheers, David.

Never heard of theses engines before so had to google it and pinch this photo from www.oldengine.org . Is this what you have there David. this one it said is 5 hp 1910.




Or is it this one, photo from www.stationaryengine.org



Maybe this one




Colin

Hello Colin,
There are a lot of big Tangye motors and pumps along the Murray at museums.
According to the Powerhouse Museum NSW railways used them keeping water up the steam engines.
The middle one of your pics looks the closest, it has the hot bulb lying in front.
One of my Tracmach friends has a running engine that I can look at to see how it goes together.
I have looked at some on u tube, they ran on the hit and miss principle.
David.

David, at the risk of stating the obvious (I lost count of the Crownies a while ago); is that a gland nut of sorts in the inlet port? I expect you have already tried a pipe spanner on that......(might be a candidate for the 12 volt washing soda cleaner)

Are those the sleeves(?) you have made in the mains in your picture?

Big end bearing block. Is the big end just a big bit of square (with a hole bored through it) bolted to the end of the conrod?

Much more enjoyable than what I was just trying to fix - a Hyundai generator with no output 240 and 19 volts at the 12v. More wires than a car!

Cheers, Jarrod.

David, a product that might??? help you with turning the hardened steel is a cutter called crobalt. I don't know anything about it, only just saw it at www.eccentricengineering.com.au recently. I am going to get one of their diamond tool holders, and maybe a crobalt cutter to try in it too.
They have a video or two on youtube as well.
If you have more material, maybe cutting another/new piece with a power hacksaw with coolant to avoid getting it so hot, might be a cheaper option and continue on with the tooling you already have? Just a thought.
I like the look of their lathe tools though.
Great project you have!

Hello Jarrod,
The top of valve housing is solid, had another look to make sure.
I had the brass that will be used for the main bearings, it will be turned to fit then split and adjusted with shims.
The spacer was pipe made to fit in the gap.
That big end block will be one of a pair bolted together to the con rod, the centre bored out to take the split big end brass bearing.
Hope you get some where with the generator.
David.

Hello 180wannabe,
Have had a look at eccentric engineering website, it would be an idea to have the tool holder and cobalt cutter for those difficult jobs,
I will take up your suggestion re starting with another piece hacksaw cut, did wonder if cutting with gas would create the same problem.
The material was from a Ford offset disc.
Thanks for your help.
David.

Must have been wishful thinking on my part. Photos can be deceiving. It looks like the valve guide screws in from underneath (looks like a hex in the photo), must just be part of the casting, then.

As with the T truck, I'm looking forward to this one. Best of luck with it.

Jarrod.

Wouldyou mate, to get the valve out of the housing, spin yourself up a thick walled tube, similar to a gudgeon pin, to place over the valve stem. Then have a go at pressing it out using little bits of round bar dropped down in the tube so your only pressing it out a little bit at time, maybe half an inch or so. This should stop the valve stem from bending.