Lister CD 8HP named Ray

Today was an easy day cleaning up the 2 long (26.5" long) head studs and using lock nuts and Loctite put them firmly back in place. I am yet to start cleaning out the water jackets that look bad but have seen worse.

During some cleaning up I remembered to have a look for the timing marks on the flywheel. I found them both, TDC and Spill Timing. Then I marked them using a silver oil pen to see them better then realised that once the radiator is back on you will not see them at all. So I used a set square and transferred them to the outside edge and used a cold chisel to imitate the same marks.
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Well I got good news and bad news about parts supply. I can get ring sets once I confirm the accurate sizes which I have done. 3/16" for both top compression and oil rings and 1/8" for the middle compression rings. No gasket sets available now even though they are on the website. Unsure about the big end bearing shells.
So I have put the conrod back into the piston after checking it is straight and not bent using a dial indicator gauge. It certainly helped with those tiny chamfers on the end of the gudgeon pin. Pin is secure in the piston and piston rocks on the pin. Started cleaning up some of the outside cover plates. Will look at the head tomorrow and may even drop the valves and lap them in. Also need to start on cleaning up the rust in the water jackets soon.

Wow, that is a lot of work for a little stationery engine. Thank goodness it has only one cylinder. You may have to be sitting down when you get the bill for the parts and hide it from Cobbarette as well.

So I still dunno whats caused these problems or Im not reading the posts right

The piston is about right and the bores about right

Did the bearing in gudgon pin end of the rod turn a bit and stop full oil flow ?
Some how the it appears the piston has been get stuck on the conrod and this is causing the marks on each side of the bore?

I dunno, maybe Im missing the cause

I have had a few CS listers and I think from what I see these are based on a lot of similar parts

The oil pressure was really aggressive on those, as in squirt squirt, zero to 50 psi type of deal and if the tap was left open on the pressure guage the guage wouldn't last very long
I seem to recall reading yours was pretty smooth pressure, would be good if you know of some one with a good runner that has a guage on it to compare

Anyway, very interesting

Fiat crawlers of many years ago had head studs that went all the way to the bottom of the block, maybe 18 inches long, most broke off down the bottom and they were only good for scrap then, unlike a Lister that last forever

Paul

Parts are not bad in price but he has to have stock before I buy. A full ring set is $33.00 including GST. A full gasket kist if it was available is $55.00 including GST. Not heard about the big end but not concerned either.
So far it is not too clear what has caused it to seize. Piston was and is free to pivot on the small end and no sideways play. Piston to bore is so close to 0.010" clearance it doesn't matter. No real nasty marks on the crankshaft journal or the big end bearing other than those 2 dark stripes but the bearing surface is smooth all the way across.
Now the only thing that has stood out to me after the cleaning of the psiton was that oil ring, it is too narrow for th ring land/groove. It measures 1/8" and should be 3/16". Plus the rings are showing a little bit of wear in the depth of them. They should be 0.015" deep and only the top compression ring measures that and the others vary around them so maybe it is mainly a ring problem.

I've got another Dumb Question for you Cobbadog..:blink:

Is the LeakOff/Return Line from the Injector back to the Fuel tank Blocked..??

These low tech engines don't have a return line only a singke line from the rack/pump to the injector. Have a look at the injector in the head, only one line. Thanks for more input though.

Cobbadog,
Those prices are amazingly cheap. Recently I paid $600.00 to have the head for my truck shaved and new exhaust valves fitted and now have the head of my ute at the same place for the same plus valve seat inserts. I have never seen exhaust valves recessed so badly. Now I believe all those stories about the damage unleaded petrol does to old engines.

I suspect that the wear marks in the big end bearing were ignored by the person who fitted the too-narrow ring, so I think once you have fitted correct rings, you should ignore the marks as well.

I wish you both (and anyone else reading this) a happy New Year.

cobbadog wrote:

These low tech engines don't have a return line only a singke line from the rack/pump to the injector. Have a look at the injector in the head, only one line. Thanks for more input though.

OK, I'll get back in my Box...

Whilst everything shows Wear, I can't see why It'd Locked after few Minutes running Cold & NO load ... Be different If It was Hot, & fully loaded up..

I'm curious to know the cause..

My 2 cents worth (Tax Free)
Did Ray inits life ever ran with nun or lttle water
this could cause a piston to grab

liitle water not coolin properly = heat expansion = Piss Tin grabbin
LOL

cya