Re: Buzacott 3hp

I've been wondering about he Gibb Key saga, Cobba..!!

I may have skipped a few strps. So the gibb head key gave way when I welded a lump of bar iron along both sides but then made an adapter to screw the bloody big slide hammer directly onto it. I was loosing some power through the link chain, so much so I straighten 3 non quality chinesium links out.
Next I took off the valve cover n removed n machined the valves then lapped them in, made a new gasket n fitted it. Opened the crankcase to find very little crap in the sump so a quick wipe out, new gasket n fitted it. Made a gasket for the fuel mixer n fitted it. Sprayed that new head gadket with copper coat n fitted it up. Could not help myself I had to see if it made noise n it did, straight away. Cleaned the breather out too.

Started on the fuel tank. Cut the arse out n made a new one. Fitted the fuel outlet n started to tin the tank n patch. Bloody 60 years of dirt takes some cleaning to get the solder to tin the surface, its a work in progress.
Love my LPG soldering iron.

  Bought some 25mm angle iron for the tank stand then made a start on trying to age it, this is a works in progress. Then marked out the height for tge inlet n outlet connections which will be soldered i  place but have some lock rings on the inside to for a bit of strength with the engine vibrations working away at tgem when running

Thanks for the update Cobba.  I really enjoy following your restoration and repair work.

Brett.
 

Looking good Cobba

I have seen some pretty average jobs done on 44's over the years for cooling tanks and they seem to hold up amazingly well

Yours looking a bit flash compared to some I have seen

Good work

Paul

        All done n dusted now except for a water leak at the top of the crack where I attempted to weld it. Will go back n check it out. Water tank has an elbow inside at the bottom as I made a short @rse transporter n needed the pick up down low. Well that idea works well as in 5 minutes of running warm water started rising up n out the top hose as designed. Engine is running at 780 RPM at the moment which is just above minimum of 750 RPM. All the soldered joints are good just dont look it. I hand threw the lip on the base n dressed it to shape as I went around the tank soldering short sections. Pretty haooy with the outcone now to sort out the leak.

More pics        

Looks good to me, like a genuine ACME replacement unit cobbadog  

People used to chuck pepper in for leaks once

Serious leaks needed a egg cracked in the radiator

Been low pressure I'm thinking it will probably seal up on it's own in time


Paul