Chassis rivets repair - How?

Yes, after I posted, I reread that they were spinning. Makes it hard.

I've often heard people talking about Dremel's.

I recently bought a small kit with the metal cutting wheels and use them with the compressed air drill. The wheels are about 2 inches in diameter and quiet robust. (The do wear quickly though)

I've been really amazed by the versatility of the Dremel.

It would be ideal for quartering rivet heads.



Paul, yes, if the river is in tight, you've got to drill out till the rivet wall is thin and weakened. Then give is a whack with a drift that is punching onto the back where the pilot stopped. Depending on the situation, the drift can be really long and allows to to get a good swing of the hammer.

Being a little off centre helps because the as the wall thins out, there is less risk to cutting into the chassis.


Sorry, one more thing, by punching on the the back of the pilot hole or deep in the rivet, you're not rolling the edge over and tightening the rivet up.

Jon_d is right. Because a hot rivet is distorted to fill the chassis hole cutting the head off and trying to punch just makes it harder (unless like Bernt's case it is loose). Putting your punch down a drill hole means that in effect you are pulling the rivet out.

Bernt, I know you won't rest unless you know it is perfect so would recommend filling and re-drilling the holes, and using punchings is a good trick. You could even have a pilot hole in the punching before welding in to give yourself a head start.

I am just trying to find out what sort of welding wire or rod would be required to weld up the chassis, which is made of high tensile steel ST-52.

Regards
Bernt

B inclined to 'V' out area 2 B welded n apply sum warm to area n go 4 it
(warm = jist to hot to tuch)

jist me 2 centz worth
but others may diffr
cya

I am just trying to find out what sort of welding wire or rod would be required to weld up the chassis, which is made of high tensile steel ST-52.

Regards
Bernt

Bernt,Bigcam'd be the best bloke to Answer this for you.

But, My 2 cents worth is;

If you're going to use a stick Welder?
best to use a Low Hydrogen Rod.
& as Swishy says A little bit of warm on the Area to be Welded.
& If you want to get real technical, warm the rods In an Oven first..

As for using a MIG Welder, fairly certain Most (if not all) wire is Low Hydrogen.. BISTBC..

Hayseed is on the money with the MIG wire and the rods.

If I was doing it, I'd probably just bang some high tensile bolts and hardened washers in what you have got.

But if you want to weld them up, you can muck around with punchings and pieces of copper or aluminium, but in reality, if you are using a MIG it is just as quick to weld the holes up with nothing under them, they are only 14-16mm, a few quick zaps and they are done, if you use punchings they would have to be small otherwise there will be no penetration.

I will only weld up the recesses and other damage. Not the holes.
The mig wire I have seems to have a compression tensile strength of around 370 N/mm^2. It should thus be ok to use on ST52 steel which has 355N/mm^2.

Hello Bernt,

I have hot riveting gear in my shed if you wish to replace the hot formed rivets in your chassis to be as original.
PM sent.

Cheers
Paul.

Hi Paul
Can that equipment travel?
Youknow where to

Yes of course it can. Just need a good air supply. I even have some bent/offset hold up dollies for chassis.
As suggested weld up wear, ream holes if necessary then rivet. Even have the rivets in stock for a small run.
Let me know if you wish to rivet instead of bolt.
Cheers
Paul