AL110 restoration, the early stages

Hi David,
That is a good tip, a quick look on the net shows many thicknesses available,
do you suggest the 1.0mm will work with the 1.2mm body steel just fine,
is welding the two no problem, there is a 1.2mm option but will that make fabrication even harder as the sheet is thicker?
Jim

Hello Jim,
The car was done by lapping the metal and close zaps with the MIG, body filler was used in the step, a butt join would probably be the proper way but that is how he did it.
On flatter panels I have folded a zigzag so that the outer face is flat and filled the gap with filler, the bottom sections of these doors were done this way.
The thicker the metal the easier it is to avoid burning holes.
There are more professional jobs than my efforts in Restoration Chat.
David.

David,
Thanks for the nice pics and welding advise
like any back yarder the first steps are the hardest,
i will pick up some sheet today i hope, the first supplier i asked did not stock it.
i would be guessing but the beautiful car you have restored, '27-28 Buick?
Jim

Jim,
That posting #167591, that's the shift tower I am looking for! Know anyone who has maybe an old stuffed box but the tower is OK, who may be willing to part with it?
Dave.

Jim,
It's a 1929 Nash Standard Six.
David

David,
That sure is real nice!
A credit to you,
Jim

Dave_64 wrote: Jim,
That posting #167591, that's the shift tower I am looking for! Know anyone who has maybe an old stuffed box but the tower is OK, who may be willing to part with it?
Dave.

Dave,
The pics are not the best,
just let me know if you need any other info.
JIm

Well it has been an exciting week with some great progress,
Thanks to the expert help from the crew here, i was able to secure an engine for the old Girl!
We are really so grateful to geoffa for his help and also John who was so kind as to provide us the engine.
A good friend was working just 40 minutes from where the motor was located.
He was able to take his trailer up over the weekend and collect it. This saved us a very long drive, so thanks to all.
I have not even asked what size it is but have been told that it came from a AB160 so if anyone can help us out that would be great.
A quick look over the motor shows it has great potential to be a good runner with some minor tidy ups.
At this stage my Son will be over tomorrow, so we can degrease and pressure wash the motor and unbolt some parts, i will also post some pics.
Does the engine marking tell us what it is?
i can not see a silver or black diamond so is it newer perhaps?
First up we will need some help with the regular tune up parts, rotor button cap plugs etc,
any suggestions on part numbers or compatible parts will be most helpful.
Also i have noticed that the manifolds will need to come off as the gasket is decaying and the intake has a hole in it.
Jim

Some pics before and after of the motor


The clean up was not aided by the fact that the degreaser pump bottle would not work, so alot of hand scrubbing.


and finally we got her looking reasonable.


Most will know what series of motor it is, but for us never owning and Inter before this is all new.
The engine number reads AGD264
so i am guessing that is 264 cubic inches?

Anyhow we did remove the plugs and hook up the starter and she turned over well, so things are looking good.
Jim

We are hoping to get the motor running in a few weeks, so we can have it ready to put back on the chassis.
The chassis has been painted and ready for a few months now.
I have quite a few questions to ask, so i thank you in advance.
Can anyone advise us on the part numbers for the dissy cap, button condensor etc, currently it has champion UJ-12 plugs in it, which are very well carboned up and black.
A quick search showed NGK B6S as an option.

I will need a few gaskets and needed some advise on the rear main, the motor has been sitting for 4-5 years and is leaking around the rear main from what i can see. Engine oil leaked on to the pallet over the week sitting there.
Do we just mount it up on the chassis and get it going to see what needs replacement, can the old rope seals take up if they are dry from sitting? or are there common seals you just replace before anything. I am guessing the rear seal is a rope seal?

Thanks again
Jim