International C1840

Hi All,

I recently purchased a very rough but sort of functional C1840 tipper. Initially bought with the idea of chopping it to make a tipper trailer for the tractor, however I have grown fond of the truck and would like to keep it entire. I’m ok with the rough body, but would like to work on keeping it running. Unfortunately it has had a rough life, so I had a few questions for those more experienced. 

First odd thing I noticed, it’s fitted with a 6-283 engine, with 5 speed box. Most information I find online shows the 1840 with a v8? Also it’s a single carb, one piece manifold, the internet seems to refer the 6-283 coming out with twin carb. 

Judging by the lack of working gauges and cut wires, it could well have been repowered at some point. 

It also has a non functioning air gauge, it is making some air as there is a leak in the tank. What would have the air setup been for?

Main questions:

1 - I’m concerned about a small amount of oil film in radiator, not usually a good sign. Oil appears to be water free. Any thoughts on this?

2 - It will not idle without the choke at least half way on, there was considerable build up on the whole engine. Currently have the carb off to see if a simple clean will help, any tips appreciated. 

3 - there are multi oil leaks from the tipper ram, right to the PTO, I will go over these. But I would like to change the transmission oil, what type would be recommend?

There is no doubt more, but if can get in running a bit better I can work at the rest. 

Thanks!
Ben

It looks OK to me ...a lot better than mine .........there is a plate in the lower inside of the LHS door with factory spec on it ......it probably had a 392 originally ,a real gas guzzler but nice to drive ....if you changed points and plugs every 5000 miles ......The original gearbox was a Fuller T54 ,and 85/140 gear oil is good for it..........the 283 motor is quite likely army surplus ,lots were sold in boxes ,recoed,in the mid 80s ....originally had 2 carbs ,but easily swapped for a single carb and much better fuel economy....the two piece exhaust manifold is a big bonus ,as the single ones always crack badly................if you want to do any serious work ,then a Perkins 354 will drop straight in (more or less).........the air is likely for trailer brakes ...UNLESS the truck has an air boosted brake system,when you will have a Bendix Airpack booster .......these things are unobtainium ,fabulously expensive ,and were certainly fitted to the diesel 1840s ,dont recall about the petrols.

One thing I didnt mention,is the army motors have a tiny hole in the oil pressure relief valve ........and if this isnt replaced with a solid one ,the engine will have no oil pressure at hot idle ........doesnt seem to worry the motors half as much as the owners.

JOHN.K. wrote:

It looks OK to me ...a lot better than mine .........there is a plate in the lower inside of the LHS door with factory spec on it ......it probably had a 392 originally ,a real gas guzzler but nice to drive ....if you changed points and plugs every 5000 miles ......The original gearbox was a Fuller T54 ,and 85/140 gear oil is good for it..........the 283 motor is quite likely army surplus ,lots were sold in boxes ,recoed,in the mid 80s ....originally had 2 carbs ,but easily swapped for a single carb and much better fuel economy....the two piece exhaust manifold is a big bonus ,as the single ones always crack badly................if you want to do any serious work ,then a Perkins 354 will drop straight in (more or less).........the air is likely for trailer brakes ...UNLESS the truck has an air boosted brake system,when you will have a Bendix Airpack booster .......these things are unobtainium ,fabulously expensive ,and were certainly fitted to the diesel 1840s ,dont recall about the petrols.

Thanks for the information John.K, the plate doesn't seem to refer to engine. There is a plate on the firewall, but someone has painted over it....
The photo is of the good side, its missing a drivers side door but it does make opening gates easier lol. Cleaned the carby up over the weekend, starts better and no longer needs the choke to run.

Long list of things i would like to sort out to keep it going for farm duties:
- seems to be breathing a fair bit
- everything leaks
- most gauges don't work
- lots of cut/frayed wires - Are there any wiring diagrams available that will help track down?
- "feels" like its running pretty hot, I will need to get the temp gauge working to monitor
- There is a "button" bolted to the floor next to the clutch pedal, not sure what this does?

Is the button on the floor the high beam switch?
Gumpy

Re: the breathing - a lot of these engines are pretty tired. Could be that, or could just need an oil change.
The cooling system probably needs a good flush, if not already done. Often people take the thermostat out. I prefer to have one in there.

Jarrod.

grumpy gumpy wrote:

Is the button on the floor the high beam switch?
Gumpy
 

good question, don’t think the lights work either. I will do some wire tracing, thanks for the idea Gumby. 

asw120 wrote:

Re: the breathing - a lot of these engines are pretty tired. Could be that, or could just need an oil change.
The cooling system probably needs a good flush, if not already done. Often people take the thermostat out. I prefer to have one in there.

Jarrod.

Thanks Jarrod, I’m  thinking a combination of tired and lack of maintenance in this case, fluids and filters are next. 

The paint on the radiator makes me think it’s been out at some point, I will give it a flush to know where I’m at. Good point on the thermostat, I will see if it still has one. 

I prefer a thermostat to be fitted too. Engine after a good service might just need a run under load to free up n increase compression. Definately radiator flush big time. Anyone can paint the radiator black so still have a good look inside. Try running a stocking inside the main hoses with a good radiator cleaner in it. That will catch the crap as it loosens n not fill the cores.

cobbadog wrote:

I prefer a thermostat to be fitted too. Engine after a good service might just need a run under load to free up n increase compression. Definately radiator flush big time. Anyone can paint the radiator black so still have a good look inside. Try running a stocking inside the main hoses with a good radiator cleaner in it. That will catch the crap as it loosens n not fill the cores.

Thanks Cobba, good idea with the stocking! I ordered an oil filter today, hopefully get it before the weekend. 

Little bit of progress tonight, traced some wiring mess and got the temp gauge working.
Started on the tacho but no dice yet, am I right in assuming it should have a wire running to the coil?