International C1840

Engine oil and filter replacement is a good start.

Definitely persist with the cooling system, it is very important that is clean, and that each component is working correctly, or replaced if necessary.

I have a lot of trouble with spark plugs these days, in everything, but especially in light running/infrequent use engines.  I think it is due to a "coating" formed on the plugs from the modern fuel.  Definitely clean the plugs, or better still replace them so you know where you are starting from.  As long as the points look reasonable they should be ok, just make sure the contact surfaces are clean and flat, and gapped correctly.  These motors perform best with a bit more advance than specified, just don't go too far that it is hard to start/kicks back on the starter.  Actually, if your engine starts easily, runs very smoothly, but seems underpowered, and runs hot, the spark might currently be too retarded.  Just try advancing it by ear, until it sounds "right", and pulls well.

Regards the 2 speed diff, with the engine not running, but the ignition key turned on, you should be able to hear the 2 speed motor on the diff either "wind up" or "wind down" (for barely 2 seconds each way) when the switch (button on the gear stick) is shifted.  If you can't, then perhaps start by testing for power at the switch, and from there further back to the 2 speed shift motor on the diff.  If you have power at the switch, and power at the motor, there are sets of points in the square part of the motor on the diff that work as limit switches, you may need to look at their condition.  The wiring to the gear stick, and back to the diff is quite heavy and is routed on its own, usually clipped inside the LHS chassis rail, and so should be easy to follow.

Brett.

If you turn ignition on with engine off you can hear quite a loud whack as it goes in and out. No whack electrical fault 90% chance.

You can get an overhaul kit (simple job) which comes with solenoid contacts and limit switches and the monkey on a stick actuating rod.

Check electrics first. If power is coming to the axle but no action you might be able to clean the contacts. The monkey might be rozen but you should still hear the whacks with the switch - check the fuse.

Just saw Brett beat me by 10 seconds - same info.

180wannabe wrote:

Engine oil and filter replacement is a good start.

Definitely persist with the cooling system, it is very important that is clean, and that each component is working correctly, or replaced if necessary.

I have a lot of trouble with spark plugs these days, in everything, but especially in light running/infrequent use engines.  I think it is due to a "coating" formed on the plugs from the modern fuel.  Definitely clean the plugs, or better still replace them so you know where you are starting from.  As long as the points look reasonable they should be ok, just make sure the contact surfaces are clean and flat, and gapped correctly.  These motors perform best with a bit more advance than specified, just don't go too far that it is hard to start/kicks back on the starter.  Actually, if your engine starts easily, runs very smoothly, but seems underpowered, and runs hot, the spark might currently be too retarded.  Just try advancing it by ear, until it sounds "right", and pulls well.

Regards the 2 speed diff, with the engine not running, but the ignition key turned on, you should be able to hear the 2 speed motor on the diff either "wind up" or "wind down" (for barely 2 seconds each way) when the switch (button on the gear stick) is shifted.  If you can't, then perhaps start by testing for power at the switch, and from there further back to the 2 speed shift motor on the diff.  If you have power at the switch, and power at the motor, there are sets of points in the square part of the motor on the diff that work as limit switches, you may need to look at their condition.  The wiring to the gear stick, and back to the diff is quite heavy and is routed on its own, usually clipped inside the LHS chassis rail, and so should be easy to follow.

Brett.

Thanks for the detailed response Brett,

Agree with the cooling system, I found more debris than i would like in the bottom hose when i flushed it. I will see if the thermostat improves anything and work from there.

I will grab a set of plugs while i'm at it, I pulled one for a look was pretty oily.



I will give the points a look over, what sort of gap should i be aiming for with these? I think i will leave the advance alone for the moment, not super confident how much to change it.

So i have checked the switch for the diff, its certainly activating something within the shift motor. I can hear it moving with each operation of the switch, so its either not changing correctly or low to high range doesnt make enough of a change for me to notice at slow speeds.

Am i right in assuming with the switch down/pressed in, this would be the lower range?

Regards
Ben

Lang wrote:

If you turn ignition on with engine off you can hear quite a loud whack as it goes in and out. No whack electrical fault 90% chance.

You can get an overhaul kit (simple job) which comes with solenoid contacts and limit switches and the monkey on a stick actuating rod.

Check electrics first. If power is coming to the axle but no action you might be able to clean the contacts. The monkey might be rozen but you should still hear the whacks with the switch - check the fuse.

Just saw Brett beat me by 10 seconds - same info.

Thank you Lang,

It does make a noise, but i wouldn't describe it as a 'whack' . I can clearly hear something moving with the 2 speed motor when activating the switch.

If it is moving OK it will be something more like a Whirr than a Whack.

If it sounds for about 1/2 a second it should be OK

Here is Mr Eatons great video.

 

The closest book i can put my hands on at the moment says the points gap should be .012" - .016"   

If you do decide to try adjusting the timing advance/retard, mark the current position of the distributor before you start, then loosen the timing adjustment clamping bolt on the distributor slightly, just enough that you can rotate the distributor body one way or the other by hand while the engine is running.  3 or 4mm movement either way should make a noticeable difference to how the motor sounds.  If you make it run better, all well and good, if not or you are unsure, you can at least set it back to the mark where you started from.

Hearing noise from the 2 speed motor is a good sign that you at least have power there, and something is happening.  Yes, the button pressed down should be "low".  Are you actually allowing the ratio to change when driving?   By that i mean are you pulling the button up, then either letting your foot off the accelerator pedal and/or pushing the clutch pedal down, to take any power off the drive line, to allow the shift to happen, and give it time to happen?  The ratio change is very unlikely to happen if you don't take the power off the drive line.  Just as changing from hi to low, you need to let your foot off the accelerator ever so briefly to take the load off the drive line, then give the accelerator a quick stab to compensate for the difference in engine revs to drive the ratio change through.  Watching a quick youtube video will most certainly explain the driving/changing process better than i can in words here.

The difference in gearing between low/hi should be quite noticeable from a driving perspective.  If the 2 speed is working and changing, you will feel the change happen.

Brett.

PS - Good work Lang!

If its been used for a lot of short runs ,the rings may be worn out from condensation..............The two speed may lock in if you turn the tailshaft by hand ...(motor stopped)............I was showing an old guy how to use the two speed at the sandblasters .......he missed the change going onto the Logan motorway,and I says "dont worry it will never go in now"......when it suddenly engaged with a big bang and nearly put me thru the windscreen...............A #4 Eaton will take an incredible amount of abuse without breaking anything.

Thank you all for the detailed information!

Sorry for the slow reply, truck has been on the back burner for a bit. 

Followed the advice above, I can confirm I’m just an idiot haha. 2 speed is working as it should, I don’t think I was noticing the difference between high and low. In fact it does make quite a difference, and is one of the few electronic operated things that work on it. 

I have left the timing alone for now, truck starts and runs reasonably - aside from a bit of smoke/breathing. 

Removed the radiator to try and give it a good flush out, several large chunks of what looks like solder came out. New thermostat and re-installed, still runs hot by the gauge, although takes a little longer to get there. Fair chance the radiator is plugged or something else still going on, any other suggestions of things to check or try?

Thanks!
Ben

 

I'd consider having it professionally internally cleaned.

May not be cheap, but it is cheap insurance.

Have to remember that around 10 clear tubes can take all the water coming out of a garden hose when flushing a radiator.
If you can't take of the tanks and clean the tubes out yourself, as Zuffen says, get it done professionally.

Just my advice.
Steve.