Fitting a steel floor

Fuller-Vit - I did have some more, but I think some other family members have ended up with them, and I certainly haven't seen them for a while.
We did have a fun, promotional photo-shoot, not long after this pic was taken, when we organised a couple of strippers to pose naked on the truck ..
Now, those photos, I most certainly couldn't post on here! ..
Somehow, I never ended up with any copies of THOSE pics, either! .. and Lou the photographer, took some incriminating pics, of me helping to lift those poor girls who couldn't afford any clothes, up onto the mudguards and bonnet of the Mack .. and I've never managed to acquire any of those pics, either!! ..

Well ya just can't help bad luck
Never mind, at least you have the memories or should I say Mammaries lol

Ron maybe the pixl8ter could help
Just the job fer a bloke of his talents

LOL
too many minors hang around the

I see lot trays around and when they are carrying steel on steel floors they use either rubber mates or wooden timbers.
So why wouldn't you put a timber tray back on with 30mm Vic Ash timber I had timber trays like this and had no dramas with it. Dave

I think its up to what the indented use is.
But after browsing that Govt thing went to put 20 litre drum on ute found that would need gates tarps and chains all to hard
Geoffb

Tip I was given to do initial location and fixing of chequer plate is to cut to size sit in position and drill 1/4" holes above the runners. Use these holes to 'spot weld' the deck on, then stitch any joins. Remember to work from the middle outwards to minimise distortion. Cutting to size to meet the inside of the gunwhale is pretty tricky so what I did was to put a bend/lip on the edge. Once everything is pinned down nicely tip it over and stitch to runners. Tip it right way again and complete joins. Think about water & dirt traps and design these out so rust never becomes an issue.

In terms of size of materials 2.8 is fine so long as there is good support beneath and on this point check out as many examples as you can. I used 35x35x3.5 RHS for my runners but then the cross members were at quite some distance.

The runners were stitch welded with the trailer on it's side, then it was tipped onto it's other side and alternate stitching done. The deck on a semi has to contain a lot of flexing stress which is why I went to so much trouble. However, a traytop doesn't need nearly so much work.

The truck is going to used to transport this machine. it weight is 5.2t I also have a 900ltr water tank to go up forwarded and a large tool box as well.
most of the work i do is in the bush and lot of rough tracks.
I was going to use 5mm chequer plate as have been told this will hold up to the type of work I'm doing a lot better.
Where the ramps go at the back of the tray should I consider reinforcing it with two sheets of steel ?

don't need a 5mm floor for that little feller

all that surface area (tracks) it'd near ride on a bamboo tray

I'd go with 3mm smooth and a rubber mat under the gadget if ya feelin at all nervous about the pretty new floor.

Certainly wouldn't go to a timber floor. You will score a 4 inch splinter at a very inconvenient time and location. Said splinter will be in a portion of your anatomy impossible to access solo.

That looks like a nice new Posi.
Just a tip, make sure you can get out a window from the inside.
You need the bucket right down to open that front door. If the country is a bit rough and she conks out without enough down bucket, you're stuck in the cab.
Brother-in-law had to be rescued a few times until he sorted out the window.
Lucky the mobile had a signal.