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HELP needed please! Pulling Bedford TA2 brake hub

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11 years 8 months ago #92812 by sammygt
Hi guys,

I'm at my witts end on this one. I can't for the life of me get the rear hubs off my little TA2 in order to reco the brakes.
This model has a tappered shaft with keyway, so I figgered I'd pull it with hydraulic jack under chain, while bashing it with sledge. All good in theory, but no dice.



I haven't got an oxy to give it some juice with.

Any ideas?

Alternatively, does anyone have a recommendation for a old truck lovin' mechanic around the Poowong, Drouin, Warragul area?

Thanks in advance all.

Cheers,
Sammy.

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11 years 8 months ago #92813 by tim
Sammy, not sure if it will work but it's worth a try. Put some diesel in a squirty bottle or similar, remove the nut & washer from the axle & if you lower the opposite side of the vehicle, then squirt the diesel onto the axle & hub, keeping the keyway to the top it should work it's way along the axle & soften the rust which will be causing the binding between the axle & brake drum. Might take some time but pretty sure it will work. Good luck. Cheers Tim ;)

1989 FORD F350 Lariat Crewcab Dually

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11 years 8 months ago - 11 years 8 months ago #92814 by Chocs
Are the shoes stuck to the drum or can it be rotated?
If it is able to be rotated, are the shoes holding the drum on by the lip..

Can the vehicle be driven?
With the nut loose, a very short drive around some private property have seen the odd one become free..


chocs 8-)

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11 years 8 months ago #92815 by hayseed
Sammy, Mate. It looks to Me as if your jack is FULLY extended.

I'd Fully retract the jack, shorten your chain up 4-5 links,& try again....

But as per Chocs Sugestion, ensure the shoes aren't stuck to the drum (can you freely rotate drum??) first...

"Be who you are and say what you feel...
Because those that matter...
don't mind...
And those that mind....
don't matter." -

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11 years 8 months ago #92816 by geoffb
Taking into account what was said above with tension on the chain I would try and tap the taper as well even if you have to use a heavy punch

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11 years 8 months ago #92817 by jeffo
Lower your jack so the underside of the hub rests on a strong support.
Dolly and sledge hammer to the opposite side.
No use hitting the hub (standard method to remove a taper) unless the shock is taken by the support.

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  • Swishy
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  • If U don't like my Driving .... well then get off the footpath ...... LOL
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11 years 8 months ago #92818 by Swishy

jist my 2 C worth tax free

LOL

Didja unadjust brakes??

If th@ twaz a decent jack with pressure , U'd probly push a hole in bottom jack base

to make it hot when no gas ax around
rap the hub where the keyway iz in rag n pour lotsa boiling water over it .... keep do n this till it is hot enuff not to tuch

Cya

[ch9787]

OF ALL THE THINGS EYE MISS ................. EYE MISS MY MIND THE MOST

There's more WORTH in KENWORTH

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11 years 8 months ago #92819 by sammygt
Gee fellas, what a great response thank you all!

Tim, I reckon I'll try seeping diesel down there and leave it a couple days. See if it helps.

Chocs, the drums are pretty free on the shoe, she'll turn with a bit of effort, but it's not the feeling you get when the shoes are grabbing on the drum as you're trying to get it off, she's locked on the taper solid, hasn't budged a mm. I wish i could take her for spin in a paddock; I reckon a few figure 8s would probably help free them off. Not an option unfortunately.

Hayseed, the jack does look pretty maxed out in the pic there. I was getting to the "awww God" point again, where the other chains and shackles had pulled apart on me. I'm pretty sure she still had a few good pumps left in her, but it might work better shortening off the chain to reduce flex or stretch anyway.

Geoffb, I haven't tried that idea so I'll get a nice drift and give that a go too.

Jeffo, that's a great tip. I feel silly not thinking of it. I'll try a heavy jack stand under it and see whether the shock of the blow reaches the taper more effectively.

Further than that I've also convinced a mate to bring over his oxy set on Saturday, so I'm sure a combination off that and the above suggestions will surely break her loose.

Swishy, the drum feels free enough to be able to slide off, might need to back off a bit more if there's a ridge, but think it'll be ok. The jack is not of the highest quality no, but I have managed to break two chains and a handfull of shackles with it so far, so it'll hopefully have enough push to get her off with a bit of luck.

Thanks again for your help guys, it's really appreciated. I'll let you know how I get along.

Cheers,
Sammy.



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11 years 8 months ago #92820 by mammoth
Trouble with using heat for removal is that both the hub and drum are iron/steel so there is no difference in how the two expand. Also as you heat the hub the axle heats up just as much.
So, here are some tried and tested tips;
1)When heating the hub only heat one side - no more than half. The theory is that the expansion of the hub opens up one side as if you were splitting an orange (?)
2) may not be possible in this case due to lack of access but the go is to heat the external item full on and create a container around the inner component and feed crushed ice in. The theory is that the inner component can't match the expansion of the outer. Did this as last resort when 20 ton jack wouldn't free a king pin - worked a treat and I should have done it from the start before the pin got crushed and press frame got bent.

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11 years 8 months ago #92821 by kenny-mopar
sounds like the hub is stuck on the inner bearing ..late last year had the same problem on a much bigger truck used sledge hammer etc...nothing would work..in the end put the wheels back on loosely and chain around wheels and i used a forklift to pull the hubs loose (could use your car or 4wd or your local draught horse if need be) :-X

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