Dodge power divider lock-out.

To post pics, go to www.tinypic.com .. click on "browse" and you'll get a window pop up with your computer folders listed.

This window is either set at "My Documents" folders by default, or at the last folders you viewed.

At the top of this window is the "folder" icon with an arrow.
You find the folder where you have your pictures .. by either clicking on the folder icon up top, (to go up folder levels) .. or if you have multiple folders (albums, essentially) with pictures in them .. you click on one of the picture folder icons in the window, that contains your picture that you want to upload.

Once you have the correct folder selected, select the picture you want by scrolling down and finding it, and then double left click on the image. This "opens" the picture by placing the file location on the TinyPic site.

You can also select a picture file, by typing a few of the first letters of the name of the picture you're looking for, in the "file name" section .. and a list of picture file names appears in a drop-down menu.
You then scroll down the list and find the name, and select it. This then "opens" the picture for upload to TinyPic.

Once you've selected the picture, the top window disappears, and the picture file location on your computer is installed on the TinyPic site.
You then click on "UPLOAD NOW!" button, and in a few seconds, the page changes, and a thumbnail will appear on the RHS.
In the lower centre of this new page is some sets of code with yellow background.

Highlight the bottom code by placing your cursor on the code, holding your left mouse button down, and running from right to left or vice versa, until the entire code turns black.
Hold your cursor on the black, highlighted code, and right click and select "copy".

Return to the forum window and start a new post, or a reply to a post. Place your cursor in the message box and right click and select "paste". This places the TinyPic code in the message box.
Click on "preview" and then click on the code in the preview page, and a new window will open, which should show your picture. If it doesn't appear, you are missing some of the code.

If you want the picture to appear in your post, just place [ IMG ] and [ / IMG ] (with no spaces) at either end of the code you pasted, and the picture will appear right in your posting, without having to click on a link.

Thanks 600, I'll do that. I'm in the same boat, got her home with massive exhaust leak on driver's manifold which has actually blown away like an oxy torge on the mating surfaces, but snapped a stud off to get it off and now looking at having to pull the head to fix the studs, bummer!Which means my plans for 4bbl manifold and straight lpg will now have to move up a notch to get the ol girl running.The job gets complicated as I had plans of building a nice 330HP 383 to replace the lack-luster 200HP 361.But that can't happen until I too, do the shed extension, concreting and hoist build to pluck the engine. Can of bloody worms!

If the stud has broken off flush, or just under the surface, if your carefull, yo can get a MIG welder, and keep spotting it on top of the stud untill it sticks out past the surface, then get some vice grips on it. The welding will shrink the stud a bit and make it easier to remove. If you try and drill it out, and normal drills arn't playing the game, I've heard of blokes using masonary drills instead. I'm a fan of the welding method though, prtobobly had to do it 1/2 a dozen times or more when I was working on the Reo.

2dogs what state you in mate if youare in brisbane i have a mate that operates a thread repair bussiness he removes broken bolts and studs that sort of thing probably do it cheap if not i am pretty sure that he uses left handed drill bit in air drill half the time that ends up removing it by itself

Tried the vise grips, no go. Tried the oxy set, still no go. Can't get a straight go at it due to steering column which is about 70mm away but directly in line with the offending stud.Would need a right angle drill.Even if I pulled the steering column,inner guard, still reckon the angle would look directly at the chassis rail. Got about 10mm of stud showing, will try knurled stud remover tool. Fingers crossed.

2dogs - Get hold of some beeswax .. heat the stud up to near red heat .. then whack the beeswax on it, and melt the beeswax over the stud. This trick is highly recommended by many.
The wax seeps into the threads, and the stud will screw out when cool.
Isn't it amazing how these exhaust studs that break, are always in the biggest pr*ck of a position?? ..

Ron, the theory is similar. Where ever you heat metal, it shrinks when it cools. Before you try the stud remover, heat it up cherry, then quench it. Even do it a couple of times. It makes a huge difference. If it has broken off cold where it has, chances are what has siezed it, is still siezing it.

The problem with welding on the stud is that if once you have welded on it and you still can't get it out then you have to try to drill through what is essentially, now heat treated steel, extremely hard on drill bits. I reckon I have every brand and style of extractor known to man as well as all sorts of drill bits in both right and left hand and still the best method I have found for removing broken bolts above 5mm in diameter is to drill through it at dead centre then use a die grinder to grind away what is left until you can just start to see the original thread, now get a pick and start removing the bits you can before attacking the rest with the sharpest bottoming tap you have, lots of work but it is the most reliable method I have found, and thats not to say that after I have drilled the pilot hole through the centre that I don't have a crack with all types of extractors before starting at it with the die grinder but just be careful not to break an extractor off in the hole as this opens up a whole other can of shitty worms.............