Help! Perkins died and won't restart

Wedge, having read what you said, it seems to me the problem stems from when you adjusted the spring tension. So I would start there, if I remember right the linkage and spring hook into a little arm that sits on a spline in the pump, I recall the arm is adjustable....
so you adding more tension to the spring may have cause the arm to strip the shaft or the linkage to drop off, leaving you with zero fuel flow.

I hope thats all it is, 'cause thats an easy fix.
With an electic fuel pump I would have expected you could check the fuel return line, if there is fuel coming back then your filters are still serviceable... BIDSTBC....

Keep us posted, cant have blokes having Perkins problems on here, only encourages them Oil Leakers...

/me

Wedge, having read what you said, it seems to me the problem stems from when you adjusted the spring tension. So I would start there, if I remember right the linkage and spring hook into a little arm that sits on a spline in the pump, I recall the arm is adjustable....
so you adding more tension to the spring may have cause the arm to strip the shaft or the linkage to drop off, leaving you with zero fuel flow.

I hope thats all it is, 'cause thats an easy fix.
With an electic fuel pump I would have expected you could check the fuel return line, if there is fuel coming back then your filters are still serviceable... BIDSTBC....

Keep us posted, cant have blokes having Perkins problems on here, only encourages them Oil Leakers...

/me

yeah that's a good point. But all the spring does is pull the linkage back onto the stop, so I can't see how the tighter spring could pull it back even further. Also, it did have the high idle thing - which I gather from mrsmackpaul's post can be caused by a blocked filter. But yes some fuel was returning to the tank, and some was reaching the injectors like I said. Could some be getting through but not enough?

Your metering valve may be stiking take it out and clean it it hapenef to my 354 Chamderlain

Hi mate re Perkins stopped,I have encountered this problem before , first of all does the elec pump still pump through the original pump ? Sometimes they fill up with rubbish also the valves fall out.But what has most likely happened is if there has been traces of water in the fuel there is this little valve doo da in the injector pump that sticks shut and does what you have described.Tap the pump cover with something not to big,eg 10" shifter handle then bleed the system,remember to have the throttle flat when bleeding and good luck.

ok so here's an update. I changed the filter, checked the screen in the manual lift pump, tapped the pump body with a heavy spanner and bled it. Took some cranking to get the injectors bled... It then started (wish I'd had some aerostart) it ran fine for a few minutes. But then when I went to drive it it first of all had a flat spot then was acting up again - idle up/down and throttle sometimes good sometimes would go up or down. I drove it back down a long rough hill then get it into the workshop.

I open some bleed screws to check for air - none at the filter but the two little ones at the pump, sure enough there's a heap of air in there. I put another 20L of fuel in, bled it and all is good for about a minute or two then back to the same hunting. Doesn't matter whether the tank cap was on or off. So I pulled the lines going between the IP and filter, inspected, reinstalled and bled. Same again - good for a while but quickly degrades.

So obviously air is getting to the IP after the filter. The lines look ok, but they're plastic ones and I can't tell if the olives have been over tightened or something. Are there any gaskets that could go in the IP and let air in? Have others ever had this problem? Am I on the right track? Im thinking I should get some new copper line, olives and replace those two lines... Anything else I should try first?

As the air is in the line at the lift pump it looks like - at this stage at least - you can discard anything to do with the engine, injector pump, engine fuel filter seating etc.

Does it have white smoke for a few seconds when you get it first started after all the bleeding - a good indication of air in the lines.

Those plastic lines can crack just like copper lines if they are kinked and of course they can rub through.

After checking all the lines and every connection particularly where it goes into the pump and filters and finding they are OK you might look at the pick-up line into the tank. They can vibrate and crack. A really frustrating problem is a pickup cracked halfway up the pipe in the tank. Full fuel - runs like a dream but as the level drops it uncovers the crack and sucks air.

A good check is to run a length of line from the pick-up pump (is the bowl really well seated?) along the side of the truck and straight into the tank filler to bypass the complete system to prove or disprove the lines and filters are the problem.

I mentioned it in another thread recently. Spend 10 minutes on taking out the bleed screw from the injector pump. Cut a 4 inch nail to about 1 1/2 inches long then silver solder or braze this (suppose if you had a steady hand you could MIG it) to the head of the screw to form a "T" handle. It will save you a huge amount of time with no dropped spanners or burned hands whenever you need to bleed the engine.

Lang

As the air is in the line at the lift pump it looks like - at this stage at least - you can discard anything to do with the engine, injector pump, engine fuel filter seating etc.

Does it have white smoke for a few seconds when you get it first started after all the bleeding - a good indication of air in the lines.

Those plastic lines can crack just like copper lines if they are kinked and of course they can rub through.

After checking all the lines and every connection particularly where it goes into the pump and filters and finding they are OK you might look at the pick-up line into the tank. They can vibrate and crack. A really frustrating problem is a pickup cracked halfway up the pipe in the tank. Full fuel - runs like a dream but as the level drops it uncovers the crack and sucks air.

A good check is to run a length of line from the pick-up pump (is the bowl really well seated?) along the side of the truck and straight into the tank filler to bypass the complete system to prove or disprove the lines and filters are the problem.

I mentioned it in another thread recently. Spend 10 minutes on taking out the bleed screw from the injector pump. Cut a 4 inch nail to about 1 1/2 inches long then silver solder or braze this (suppose if you had a steady hand you could MIG it) to the head of the screw to form a "T" handle. It will save you a huge amount of time with no dropped spanners or burned hands whenever you need to bleed the engine.

Lang

Sorry lang you got the wrong end - the air is in the line after the filter - way after the lift pump. It's air free from the tank to the filter, the air is in the injector pump and nowhere else. So I managed to find some 5/16 copper pipe and have replaced the lines to and from the filter to IP. Absolutely no change, runs fine then in a couple of minutes has air.

Now I'm not sure what to look at... Any obvious pump gaskets? Or is it more serious? Funny the way it wasn't doing this at all a couple of days ago.

Like the T handle idea I'll upgrade my nipples

Mount a fuel tin n hose a lot higher then the pump n

gravity feed the pumper

process of elimination

May B

cya

just did that, same deal exactly. So my IP is sucking air for sure - the feed fitting is fine. Well how about that to ruin your day.

So anyone know of a working CAV pump going spare? Or is there a gasket/diaphragm I can replace?

I know it is a long shot, but I had a 6-98 Leyland that had a crook injector that was allowing compression back into the pump and gave similar symptons.