Detroit school lesson please

Jeffo, you are on to it now.
Gilly

I don't like electric gauges full stop new or old 5 to 10 difference on 2 gauges in an old banger don't surprise me id fit a cuple vdo capillary style or murphy gauges in it change the other thermostat go from there.30 ks isn't that far but its enough to cook it towin a 20 tonner id think if u had a serious issue.As jeffo said check the in and out temp of the radiator with your infrared .

G'day

I was all ready thinking of checking the bottom hose outlet temp, I'd like to get something digital to tell this. It's hard to do with the temp gun cause as soon as you pull up things have changed. I need to see it when I'm pulling a load cause as soon as I back off the throttle (within30 seconds) the temp comes down.

The temp senders are in the same spots on the thermostat housings both sides.

The trucks not boiling at all, the boiling I mentioned earlier was a pot on a gas cooker with the old thermostat in it.

I think I'll spend a bit more and get another brand new vdo gauge and sender to put in the passenger side, this way at least the 2 are identical. Then I can put the old one on the outlet of the radiator to see what it's doing all the time.

Problem now is getting the chance to do it!

Cheers

If the gauges are not even of the same make that sort of variety is nothing

G'day the only way to tell if your gauges are reading the same is to stick both senders in the same pot of boiling/hot water and see what they read. I'll bet they don't read exactly the same.

Jon

It may not be the senders it can be the gauge itself.

I'd swap the sender wires from one unit to the other and see what temps the gauges then read.

Once you know and accept there is a variance between the gauges you can accommodate the slight variance.

I'd let it warm up and check the idling temp with the IR unit and compare it to the gauges. At lease then you know how accurate each gauge is.

If you're really really anal you could wire a resister in the circuit and get both gauges reading the same.

When fighting problems like this you need a systematic approach and slowly eliminate each potential problem one at a time.

Stiil doing everything but looking inside the radiator, that my thought, going about this job backwards.
Gilly

DaD
M80
pay no tension 2 them thar 4 stoke n jokers
LOL



we nose wen we're on good thing

LOL

cya

G'day

I certainly haven't discounted the radiator being a potential issue however I can't see how it would be causing the problem if one side is hardly even getting to 80(assuming the gauge is reading correctly). If it were blocked I would've thought both sides would be running similar temps.

Can someone explain the direction of flow after the water pump? Does it split and go through each side equally or through one side first. Oil cooler?

Cheers

Digga, Ol saying in my w/shop, if in doubt, pull it out.
You will never know how good/ bad it is until you LOOK.
If you can pull the top tank off, you will see the tubes & general appearance, then you can GENTLY, poke a dip stick or similar article down tubes to test if any are blocked. Water pumps, thermos, oil coolers are all add on!s to assist control of flow, Gauges to indicate what is happening will reveal some relevance.
One side of this motor could be running hotter due to tuning, only way to check / prove that, good tune up, valve clearances, gov gap, injector racks etc, then if you must, run EGT gauges on the manifolds to see how even the motor is tuned.
Remember one thing, it is not new anymore, who has been playing with it, what has or has not been done to it.

Go back to basics, check what needs to be checked in a methodical method, then you can draw some sensible conclusions.
That is my thought.
Gilly