LPG boost for diesels

Pretty well covered, the addition of LPG to diesel with positive results.
Also queries show some results re adding water injection to diesel.
Will have to look up the hydrogen injection (straight hydrogen less the oxygen content).
Few years ago both Ford and GM toying with that aspect, but don't think it was diesel based, have to do a bit more digging.
Thanks for posts,
Dave

I found this link ages ago for diy water injection.

www.turbomirage.com/water

I have the gear to install on my Ute but haven’t found time to install. I would like to modify it to fit to the Perkins but from understanding it works best with a turbo. But considering I can feel the difference when it is cold and foggy then it would have to do something on hot days I would think.

Had a look at that link, seems more to do with assisted boost to petrol engines, no referernce to diesel use that I could read into it.

Suits turbo engines Aaron, would not be worth the effort on a N/A.
A decent pump will cost more than that DIY link info.
You need high pressure to atomise the brew to the max.

Cure for a gutless diesel? Get rid of it and get a petrol, even the europeans are waking up to it.

600D,
Best thing I did with my F350 was ditch the hungry gutted 460 and drop in a 360 Cummins (6BTA)
Bit like going from ponies to draught horses, way more torque and half the fuel bill.

Each to their own

Cheers Steve

67mustang wrote: Heyseed

System is a PRINS LPG UNIT

67mustang

Cheers Mustang..

Have you tried any other System?
For example.... www.ecoshot.com.au/

Somewhere back a few years, I thought Busman was talking about water injection in his motor home. Could have it all wrong, getting old you know.

Spoke to the son of the bloke that started the carby joint on Parramatta Rd, or was it Burwood Rd ? He sopped playing with it when the old boy died. (I don't say passed as seems the fashion now, once dead you are dead in my op !)
We mist into the air intake using 4 8 micron injectors right at the the air intake (6V92) using the rationale that there is a lot more power available when the air is more dense (cold, raining).
200 psi pump. Only flick it on on hot days for a long hill climb and definitely helps, I reckon saves a gear change.
On an american forum where a lot of the guys have up to 60 YO converted buses many of them do a $100 conversion by adding an LPG outlet at around 4 psi to the inlet, again it is used for hill climbs more than anything on 2 strokes but they all swear by it. Just a switch on the dash and a solenoid, flick on when needed.
Cameron at CPF has talked me out of it so far, but now we have sold the farm and have some more time, who knows....
As an aside, I removed the mesh that covered the openings in the rear engine door and just made up some 8mm stainless rod bars so you could not get your hands in there, now VP runs 6 deg C cooler, just shows how important breathing is for radiators as well as motors !

Busman

You are certainly right about breathing. It is more important to "let the bad air out than "let the good air in"

Remember in the old FJ Holden days you would see people in summer towing a van with the bonnet popped open on the safety catch. It certainly made them run cooler allowing the hot air to flow more freely through the radiator and out of the engine bay.

Air cooled engines eg aircraft, regulate their temperature by opening and closing the cowls on the outlet side of the engine bay or oil coolers, particularly in a climb, not by increasing intake. I seem to remember the outlet area needs to be 4 times the size of the inlet in most applications.

I have seen some articles on removing splash pans from engine bays in vehicles giving greatly increased efficiency to the radiator air flow.

Lang