LPG boost for diesels

Mesh can be a funny item if you are making custom grills/fan guards. If you check the spec's most have less than 50% open area and can be down around 30% Looks good but can be restrictive to air flow.
Cheers Steve

busman wrote: Spoke to the son of the bloke that started the carby joint on Parramatta Rd, or was it Burwood Rd ? He sopped playing with it when the old boy died. (I don't say passed as seems the fashion now, once dead you are dead in my op !)
We mist into the air intake using 4 8 micron injectors right at the the air intake (6V92) using the rationale that there is a lot more power available when the air is more dense (cold, raining).
200 psi pump. Only flick it on on hot days for a long hill climb and definitely helps, I reckon saves a gear change.
On an american forum where a lot of the guys have up to 60 YO converted buses many of them do a $100 conversion by adding an LPG outlet at around 4 psi to the inlet, again it is used for hill climbs more than anything on 2 strokes but they all swear by it. Just a switch on the dash and a solenoid, flick on when needed.
Cameron at CPF has talked me out of it so far, but now we have sold the farm and have some more time, who knows....
As an aside, I removed the mesh that covered the openings in the rear engine door and just made up some 8mm stainless rod bars so you could not get your hands in there, now VP runs 6 deg C cooler, just shows how important breathing is for radiators as well as motors !

Definitely Parramatta Rd Burwood, a few doors down towards Sydney from where KFC are now. opposite the Catholic church.

Back in the 60's during the summer we used to run the butterfly hoods on the old Brockways with the sides folded under and held down with tarp straps. I think this was as much to keep the heat out from under the cab (NO AC!) as to help cool the engine??

Water injection is such a great topic. Has been around for ages and yet still a fringe concept for most tuners. Think their main concern is running a highly tuned engine out of brew with catastrophic results.
My system had block nozzle detectors but I reckon it would be all over if a nozzle blocked or I had a pressure line fail when the engine was under full load.
A dyno operator once explained to me you don't want to compress moist air (rainy day) as the water molecules are taking up air space. You want cold dry air and then inject your brew into the hot induction pipework for maximum charge air cooling.
The dyno's computer needs info like ambient air temp and humidity to compensate and produce consistent results.
Under engine trays can be tricky. We removed them for ease of oil change etc but found we'd upset the low pressure area under the car and then the radiator's air didn't flow out properly. We put them back and coolant temps returned to normal. Reckoned the designers had deeper pockets for wind tunnel testing than we did.

This is the change I made, the original mesh as built (but in a different configuration) and the newer stuff on the left hand side. Not a huge difference to the untrained eye but a huge difference in cooling performance.