1954 AR 160

I was wondering if any one knows how to test a fuse box in a car or truck so you can figer out what size fuse goes in it. The old girl has had some extensive rewiring done to her. They have replaced the fuse box and it has no fuse sizings on it??
Thanks

It depends what's running off said fuse. When they were new, they only had, maybe two fuses in them?
If you can work out what each fuse does (if not by wire colour, then maybe see what stops working when you take it out) you can work out the size.
XXXXample: brake lights usually 21Watts each; x2 = 42 watts. If it's been converted to 12 Volt, then Watts = Volts x Amps; Amps = Watts/Volts; 42/12 = 3.5 Amps, so a 5 Amp fuse should do it. They usually have a bigger fuse than that, since it often does the interior light as well and you might connect a trailer. 6 Volts will be double the Amps for the same wattage.

Note that it might have a fuse in the back of the headlight switch (later ones do).

They never originally had a fuseblock as such.

So if you can work out what each fuse does and thence the load on it, you will know what fuse to use.

Cheers, Jarrod.

It depends what's running off said fuse. When they were new, they only had, maybe two fuses in them?
If you can work out what each fuse does (if not by wire colour, then maybe see what stops working when you take it out) you can work out the size.
XXXXample: brake lights usually 21Watts each; x2 = 42 watts. If it's been converted to 12 Volt, then Watts = Volts x Amps; Amps = Watts/Volts; 42/12 = 3.5 Amps, so a 5 Amp fuse should do it. They usually have a bigger fuse than that, since it often does the interior light as well and you might connect a trailer. 6 Volts will be double the Amps for the same wattage.

Note that it might have a fuse in the back of the headlight switch (later ones do).

They never originally had a fuseblock as such.

So if you can work out what each fuse does and thence the load on it, you will know what fuse to use.

Cheers, Jarrod.

Thanks Jarrod will have a look at it tomorrow and see what we can work out

The last owner had the bench seat recovered very nice job to.

Had a bloody shit day today. Thought I would get under the truck and take the sump off and give it a clean out before the carby arives. Took the sump plug out and about 2 liters of clean water came out followed by another 2 or more liters of white think watery mix and a nice locked tight motor >

This will probably be a major set back for me. I really wanted to just get this truck up and running around the farm then over the next month or so go over it and get the old girl ready for road use and for next years wood season as I plan on using her for work.

So some thought please if you will on what I could put in her in the event that I can not reuse the original motor. I am thinking a perkins 6 354 ??

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I have just been through a similar exercise (see www.hcvc.com.au/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1415776938 ). I ended up putting a 281 into mine.

I was thinking the same diesel option but was warned against it as I would lose a lot of road speed as the Perkins doesn't rev as far as the IH motors so I would end up changing diff ratios and other things.

Why not pull the head off and have a look before deciding how far to go. You may also find the cause of the locked motor is only something jammed and the bearings etc are actually fine.

I have seen one 'jam' at a display. they took the fan belt off and it was the generator that was locked solid, the engine itself was fine.

If you do decide to go the Perkins option I had a cross member to do that sitting in the shed. It was in a pile of stuff I took to a swap meet to sell but can't remember if it sold or not. I will have a look this weekend if you are interested.

Thanks bparo for the words of advice. I took the rocker cover and sump of today and it was not good. I got head bolts that are 45% rutted. It looks like there is a heater hose or something along them lines that gose to the inlet manifold that has rusted out in the inlet manifold. When looking at the bottom end there is lots of rust at this point I dont have much hope but you never know your luck I wont really know till I pull her out

Gary you might be surprised at how much can done with out spending stuff all, dont throw the towel in on the motor just yet
As far as the perkins goes I love em I feel they are a great little motor work really hard and have a big heart and are dirt cheap to run
But if you go diesel you'll have a lot to change fuel tanks diff gearbox maybe it wouldnt take much to throw a whole heap of dollars at it but if it is what you want go for it

Paul

How disappointing! The state of things will not be known until you get the head off. You may have a cylinder full of water, or not. If it doesn't look too bad, you may be able to free it up by soaking in diesel, or whatever and then rocking it in top gear. I have also freed engines up by touching a wire on the starter (or a remote button) while leaning on a long bar on the crankshaft nut. Also, you should be able to tell which pistons are trying to go down when you engage the starter (you can feel it) and then bash them with a hammer on some hardwood.
If it really is solid, as Bruce said, a 6-281 is about the cheapest replacement and bolts straight in.

Best of luck, Jarrod.

Thanks Mrsmackpaul and asw120