1954 AR 160

Mate, you need 4th gear to "tow it into submission".
1st gear gives your engine mechanical advantage - you want the opposite, you want the wheels to have it. If you have some hard, flat ground and plenty of air in the tyres, I'd think rocking it back and forth in top will work as well as a tow, if not better. Don't write it off just yet....

Also, I forget, do you have the head off? If not, tap the valves before you go too hard.

Jarrod.

Thanks Jarrod I have taken the rocker arms off and have the plugs out. The plan was that if dragging did not work I was going to hook the compressor up and try and use air to push some diesel down around the piston. I might try 4th gear tomorrow with the fork lift hooked up to it.

Hi Garry, it was only the speed limit that was 40 mph, the trucks could do 50 mph ( 80 kph ) or more.
If you can get a 240 or 264 motor running well, tuned for unleaded petrol might be the best option.
Info on this forum and others re electronic ignition, spares etc. Expect 8 to 10 mpg.
Really like your business plan for the truck - look great loaded with wood. Ideal for the job.
Saw the odd one fitted with a lazy axle and some had "silly wheels" or a single tyred axle in front of the
drive axle. Gave an extra 4 ton gross under the rules at the time.
The overdrive gearbox mentioned on another thread here was used with Perkins and Cummins diesel
motors fitted to the AB and C series 180's. Kept road speed comparable and a good option.
Run along in direct when heavily loaded and use OD in good conditions or when empty.
Hope you get a good result. Paul.

Found the time to take the head off today. After getting a look in side I am not planing any thing with this block. Think I am going to save some penny's and get my hands on a cummins. Had lots of water in there for a long time. Plan on dropping the oil in the box to see if any water in there as well as I am still not sure how the water got in there. If there is water in the box I am thinking it might have been in a flood.

That's a real shame. Initial thoughts are "bonnet and air cleaner left off in the rain". Hopefully the gearbox and diff come up clean. Even if they are full of water, they may be OK so long as everything's under the high-tide mark. If it's been in a flood, I'd think you'd see it in the gauges, perhaps?

You'd be surprised, you can still fix that if you had to. I've done it before. It's rather a lot of work, though.

Best of luck with it, Jarrod.

That's a real shame. Initial thoughts are "bonnet and air cleaner left off in the rain". Hopefully the gearbox and diff come up clean. Even if they are full of water, they may be OK so long as everything's under the high-tide mark. If it's been in a flood, I'd think you'd see it in the gauges, perhaps?

You'd be surprised, you can still fix that if you had to. I've done it before. It's rather a lot of work, though.

Best of luck with it, Jarrod.

Thanks Jarrod. I been thinking about it I have cleaned the diff out had a lot of shit in there as the pinion was out. I cleaned the diff out and fixed the pinion changed the unies. The cones will need changing at sometime down the track. The diff did have water in it but that still dose not prove it was in a flood.

The pitting in some of the bores is bigger than a match head.

You would not think so, but the pitting in the bores will fill up with hard carbon, leaving you with a nice round bore. This was my experience from rebuilding 186's and 161's in the early 90's. You might be surprised what you can get away with when you're a 1st/2nd year apprentice with no money

Of course, if you have the means you'd be better to go with the other plan.

Cheers, Jarrod.

You would not think so, but the pitting in the bores will fill up with hard carbon, leaving you with a nice round bore. This was my experience from rebuilding 186's and 161's in the early 90's. You might be surprised what you can get away with when you're a 1st/2nd year apprentice with no money

Of course, if you have the means you'd be better to go with the other plan.

Cheers, Jarrod.

Liquid metal works well as long as you don't let it get to hot.

You would not think so, but the pitting in the bores will fill up with hard carbon, leaving you with a nice round bore. This was my experience from rebuilding 186's and 161's in the early 90's. You might be surprised what you can get away with when you're a 1st/2nd year apprentice with no money

Cheers, Jarrod.

Interesting!!.....did you ever get to finish your apprenticeship???
just asking!
newto

ps.just heard from a reliable source that there's a mob that sell carbon in a jar....I guess that would help speed up the perfectly round bore end result???

Yep. Still there after 26 years. (lift and escalator mechanic, not motor mechanic!)

Me and mates would tinker with old $50 cars on the weekends.

Jarrod.

Yep ASW120 ... I remember the days of my youth tinkering with $25 cars back in the late 60's. One of the guys that hung around us had a Standard 10 that burned oil like it was going out of fashion. I told him to expand the piston rings by packing them out with rubber bands to get a good seal. He did just that. Started the thing up .... ran good for about 10 seconds then an awful stink come out of the exhaust. Then it settled into a rough idle, pumping heaps of smoke out the exhaust plus the occasional drop of oil. The ungrateful bugger reckon I was having a lend of him when I suggested the rubber band trick.