Army Dodge AT4-114

New member with an introduction to my latest sickness ...........
Attempting to bring an AT4-114 back to life -ex Army. Hemi245 ute back or styleside. Been using the forum for some time both for the pre purchase info and deciding what I wanted then looking to buy. Ended up buying off a farm about 3k away! My main addiction is bikes so planning to use this as a bike carrier to get the little ones to rallies too far to ride. last used 1986 so took a bit of work to get running but I was determined to drive it home and not tow it. I say determined, my missus says pig headed, she is probably right. It had no brakes of course but some careful use of gears and the handbrake we arrived back at my restoration workshop. Some say it's just a flatish piece of dirt but it's all about perspective, could have been the side of a rocky hill.
Bit confused about the year model, I had thought it about 1971 from the twin headlights, the Hemi and the real door handles not the flats of the D5N. All the tags on the brake lines finished with 66. My bike brain says that year models are often determine by the date on the wiring harness. I found a list on remlr.com that suggests it may be 1973. No ADR plate suggests pre '72 but I seem to remember that "commercial" vehicles were exempt from ADR's for some time. Anyway its a long way to say I don't know it's age, maybe you do.

Anyway a new set of brakes including machined drums, new shoes, new wheel cylinders and re-sleeved master and all new hoses means I now have good brakes. Well maybe not "good" but as good as they ever were. It was not a big surprise to find that some idjut thought the bleeders looked very similar to a grease nipple and had managed to fill the lines with grease. Had to strip out the bundy and flushed them all with metho driven by air from both ends till it come clean. At least them bits did not rust.

Moving on, it seems the Army had their own way of doing things. I had a new fuel pickup line from the tank made. The bloke said "this is an Army truck" which was pretty good as all he had seen was about 6" of perished hose. I see a major reinforcement under the gearbox mount, the engine sump has definitely been made larger, reckon I better get a spare 20L of oil. The clutch master/slave hose was also larger from a much larger truck, that bloke said the Army wanted interchangeability between all the trucks. The other thing is that my wheels are 8 stud yet I mostly see others with 6 stud, not that it matters much, they have round black things and stop the rims from sparking on the road.

So it is getting near the time I need to access the forum. Someone had posted a wiring diagram but I could not blow it up large enough to read even with two pairs of glasses. Only had a quick look but just found 1!! fuse and that looks like an addition. hope all the smoke has not escaped. It would be great to get a copy of a workshop manual particularly showing the Army models but have not found one yet. A lubrication chart would be good, I think the diff and box takes 85W90 and capacities would be useful too.
That's enough for now, my typing finger is getting tired.

Good luck getting any army specific information, I did a bit of work on one of these for a bloke years ago and it was nothing like what a civilian 114 was. If I remember right the 8 stud pattern is the same a Ford F250s and big chevs. As far as wiring goes you are probably better off just ripping out the old stuff and starting again. and drawing your own diagrams.

Dodgedude give the army transport museum in Albury a call those things should be old enough now to be unclassified

These are the bits of the horn I found in the glovebox. I do have the ring that screws to the wheel inner boss and doing a repair to the ears that hold the button on. The spring pictured is not the right one but I reckon there needs to be a spring somewhere. Can anyone tell me the right order for assembly and which way up for those two brass cup jiggers.

I figure the contact in the middle of the wheel is supposed to be live and earthed when the button is pressed?

The contact in the column will never be live, it supplies earth to the horn when you press the button. There should be permanent positive 12volts on one side of the horn, just touch the column wire to earth to see if the horn blows.

Thanks 600, thats what I meant. Found a picture that suggests live wire to horn comes from ballast resistor. Sorta weird, should it be on the 12v side or reduced side?
Sure wish I had a wiring diagram, found bit of one and a full one but resolution too small to blow up and still read it.
Also anyone know how to remove the light switch, had an idea the knob screws out first but not game to apply much force. It's out because I broke the knob off but would like to assemble it properly before gluing the knob back on.

I would say 12V side but I'd have to look at my diagrams. I usually replace all the 50 year old components with new ones but if I remember right there is a release button on the back of the switch. I will see if I can copy a diagram and post it maybe tomorrow but like all stuff this old, what is actually the same as the diagram shows and what has been "modified"

Little button on the light switch near the terminals push it and knob will pull out with shaft

Thanks for the help you blokes. I consider myself a competent mechanic who has been out of the game for a while. I feel stupid when I get silly little things wrong. Like the other day my missus say's "can you suggest something for tea?", without thinking I replied with something I thought might be helpful. What a mistake that was :sick: Now I have to write a 3 page essay about all the things I did not like over the last 40 odd years :woohoo: . Things did not improve when I said I could only get half a page........
Dodgey still loves me though, he turns things on when he's happy and sparks at me when he's not, simple. Much like a wife, oh no, not another one :pinch:

had to to replace the earth wire going down the steering column so decide to take out the blinker mechanism and give a clean and lube while in there. The shaft was sloppy so took the whole lot off to have a gander.
Found this


ingenuity eh, the DPO had used his butt to hold the bolt in place. Was having a laugh until I tried to re-assemble without the butt. Damn thing slid down inside the tube and stopped at the steering box. First thought was too bad but when turning the wheel I could hear it scraping on something. Murphy's Law say's that it will jam the steering when least convenient so had to remove the tube to retrieve it. Anyway all fixed now.
Thought I might share the pic of the interior light in half and half state. I have used the stove cleaner in a few situations where a mild abrasive is required. Of course lots of other stuff will probably work.


Getting close to rego now, still have to figure out the horn button arrangement and get high beam, fix the seat and new seals for the dissy.