Using a single action brake master cylinder as a Clutch M/C

There are slave cylinders available that simply slide over the original throwout bearing sleeve available from most hotrod shops.
They are used as original fitment on a lot of late model cars.
Much easier to fit, just require a hydraulic line. No fork, no cables.
Try Castlemaine Rod Shop. No affiliation. Have seen them advertised.

May have considered something like that IF I still had it in pieces on the shed floor. But just taken me the last 3 months setting up engine and transmissions in the chassis. Be reluctant to pull it apart again just to replace a throwout bearing and sleeve. Thanks anyway, Dave

Without dragging this topic on and on, found out a few things about early (60's and even up to late 70's) Ford truck clutch master cylinders, may be of some value if your doing one up or may need parts down the track.
Local bloke around here, between him and his Dad, have had Fords since the mid fifties up to and including, F700's
Seems the smaller F trucks, after 1972 went to a setup the same as Falcon cars. Probably because they started using the Oz 250 engine??
But the larger F trucks, even those with the 5 speed Clarke boxes, retained the same one and one eighth MASTER clutch cylinder with a ONE inch SLAVE.
Of course, it doesn't make them easier to get, although still around in the boneyards or in blokes backyards. I was given one today, but will need sleeving and new kit put through it, which are still OK to get hold of.
Most brake and clutch mobs want your old one to either do up, or as a core replacement, if you haven't got one, sin loi, Baby!
But, they are around, just have to be prepared to hunt for them.
Dave

a brake master cylender has a check valve fitted to stop line bleed back /in other words you would have to pump the brake to make the shoes conform to the drums then pump to aply braking ';'; a clutch master cylender does not have a check valve -- so if the replacement matches aqnd its a brake cylender remove the check valve //';';master cylender bore size and stroke will give you a set quantity of fluid , if you alter the either bore or stroke you will end up with more or less out put --- the slave cylender bore and stroke are matched to the master ctlender to give the correct travel to engauge and disengauge the clutch ';'; the clutch hydraulic advantage is also factored in so the pedal aplication pressure is accectable todriver comfort - alter the ratios and you can make the pedal pressure harder or softer as well as popping the piston down under // the manafacturer spent untold dollars developing the formulas to work so i would not try to change them . ( just my thought about change ) hope this helps cheers don

Got hold of an original Ford F700 one and one eighth inch master cylinder, needs re-sleeving and a kit put through it, couldn't get the matching slave cylinder (one inch) here in Oz. Has a special casting to mount it on the bellhousing bracket, so sprung for one from the States, already ordered and should be about a fortnight away.
At least I'll know they are are the correct ones rather than the hit and miss experimenting.
Also got hold of a C30 Chevy truck dual circuit brake M/Cylinder, same bore diameter as original, in the process of making the adapter plate up at the moment.
Thanks for all help,
Dave