1973, Inter D1310m 4x4, front bearing TROUBLES!!!!

Hi all, our 73 Inter 4x4 has had overheating front bearing problems. I had stub axles welded and machined to original specs to fit new bearings/cones, new seals etc. Took it for a bedding in run today, temps were: inner 118Degrees C, outers 105 degrees. rears were 55 degrees. Please any suggestions/advice as to what I should expect temp to be, we are in Darwin where it is pretty warm (32degs today) also any one know what securing nut should be torqued to????? Many thanks, Mike T

I'm not a mechanic but .......
Jack it up.
Spin the wheel & slowly do up the nut until it slows down the wheel.
Keep spinning it & unwind it till it spins freely again.
Take it back further to the next place it can be 'fixed' to.
A little too far is OK ... better than not enough.
Each time you stop after you do it, put your hand on the hub. If still getting warm, undo it a little more.
Silly question but did you force-feed the bearings?
Oh! Oops! 4WD!!
Disregard post...

I have dumb question why do you have to bed the bearings in ? I would think they should do up just like any other tapper roller bearing pretty much as bruce99 says But what do I know

Hi Bruce99, many thanks for your reply, I guessed it was the same as adjusting drum brakes! Now need new seals as I damaged them getting to the rear bearings. Bearings are ok, will order seals tomorrow. Once again thanks mate!
Mike T

Hi I worded it poorly, I meant ,take it for a spin to check the temps, on return I found the outer bearing was not bedded in(tight enough) and was spinning on the stub axle - hence the high temp. Luckily I did not travel too far hence did not do damage. Cheers, Mike T

G'day D1310m, when i adjust wheel bearings after having them apart the first thing i do is always do em up real tight to seat them, bearing in mind the size of em (pun intended) then spin em a bit and check em again. then i loosen em and if i've got spec's (like BPW for example that make this information available) i do em up to spec. Otherwise i do em up just firm not tight. This is the point between having free play and having them so tight that they get to hot and fail. This is something that mechanics can just feel. Remember that if they have a lock nut (2 nuts) that will make em a bit tighter again as the outer nut pushes the inner one to the other side of the thread when you do it up. With oil hubs i probably do em i little tighter than grease and always Jack em up and check em for play after a test drive. With grease hubs any grease not in the bearing or on the contact points eg stub and bearing cones is a waste except for between the inner bearing and the seal. I always fill this bit right up as it helps keep out the water etc as in my experience it's always the inner that gets dry and fails. hope this helps Debo.

Hi Debo,
many thanks for your reply and advice, all info is taken on board and will be used when I get new oil seals and fit the bearings. Once again thanks mate,
Cheers,

Mike T

Mike if you can't stop the inner part of the bearing from spinning it has been known to use a centre punch & pepper the top of the shaft. As it makes a hole it swells out around the mark if you get me?
20-30 shots is OK. Better not to do it underneath as that is where the weight sits.

Hi again Bruce, yep mate we tried the ''peppering'' technique about 1000ks ago, when bearing was removed the ''dimples'' were worn flat, and inner bearing was spinning again. But this time the stub axles have been welded and machined to exact specs, and axles are now ''round'' not out of round as they were. So will fit new seals, a bit of loctite to bearing surfaces and see how we go. Once again mate, thanks a lot. Mike T

just checked my workshop manual , its doesnt specify front wheel adjustment , but states for medium duty rear axles tighten adjusting nut to 50ftlbs then back off 1/4 turn ,fit lock tag & tension locknut to 150ftlbs , you may not need that much tension on your light duty axle which should be a Dana44 , ive always just done mine by feel , nip adjusting nut up tight to seat bearings , spin wheel , back off nut until you can just feel some "float" in the hub , tighten nut tight by hand (dont use a bar on socket) fit lock tag then tighten locknut tight , bend over tag & finnish assembly , ive driven mine thousands of miles like that with no problems , think Darwin is the only place i havnt driven it yet ,