Fruehauf Cattle Cruiser

Thats fantastic, I also really enjoyed watching that and even stopped what I was doing to watch it properly. Well done and thank you.

Yeah, Top Hole, Mrs.
Certainly got more patience than I would have, confronted with that lot I reckon I may have thrown the hands in the air and snatched it!
But, you done well!
Cheers, Dave_64

geoffb wrote:

Hi AllyPaul interesting how they built rigidity into the trailer Are going to put those small top Hat sections back in between the up rights just asking Notice all the holes in the sheets also have like a flanged for strength. The welding well we will leave that there:unsure:

Mate, I reckon those Top Hat Bits are Patchs that have been put there to disguise/Hide the Corrosion/rust. You can see where some of the Posts have been patched/repaired with the same Profile..

I could be wrong though.!

I'm sure Paul will set us Straight..

Good news Dave, you will sleep well tonight with number 5 hot off the press, the ink is hardly dry yet



Browny and Seed the aluminum top hat bits are to cover corroded holes in the trailer, the vertical ones are to cover or maybe reinforce the crate were it has brushed up against something tougher than the crate

Paul

Ok thanks Paul.

/brilliant Story Paul and well put together. Did you end up finishing the project off once you got it back home?
Something of interest to me was the way you quickly described how you did your wiring and break into the main cable, solder, double heat srink then another heat shrink over the top again. One day when possib le and you have a bit of scrap cable could you show us the process please. I have aften wondered the best way to 'break into' a wiring harness, make a soldered joint and seal it properly without a gap between the harness and the light wire being connected to it.
I bet the smile did not leave your face on the trip home either with this trailer behind you. Every time you checked the mirrors I can imagine what you would say, as I would and do when a new toy follows me home.

The worst thing you can do with respect to trailer wiring is break into it, best practice is to run the backbone cable from front to back as Paul did and also as Paul did, run 6mm cable(this is a legal requirement for road train rated trailers) then at the rear of the trailer put in a junction box and from there run all the other wiring. This allows easy fault finding by being able to seperate the main wiring from the ancillary wiring. I am not really a fan of soldering as it requires cutting wires to fault find, I only solder where it is impossible to do anything else. I personally use deutsch plugs wherever possible as you can easily disconnect while fault finding. Running the cables in conduit and heatshrinking the ends to keep out moisture and dirt also helps longevity as does the trick of double wrapping the cable ties which gives a far better grab on the cable.

Mrs
gudday m8
I have now seen #1 movie
iz gr8
@ tme 3:00
is th@ softdrink bottle to drink or is it storage 4 wen U get caught bit short
or If it is a source to fight fires
I would suggest Coca Cola heated up on the dash & with a good shake up make a good fire extingwisher
LOL
keep m cummin

cya

So as I understand your thoughts you suggest to run the multi strand 6mm cable from front to rear with no breaks then run a separate wire back up the trailer to each clearance light, is that right?

Thats it cobba, keeps the integrity of the main frame cable intact, if you start chopping into the cable it creates failure points from moisture ingress or dodgy joins.