Bedford 1946 k

now its official Dave, welcome to the world of Beddie owners you have got a great project there....

you should be able to pick a tray to at least work as a template from a wreckers or better from a scrap dealer... it was probably all timber originaly, or you could get an old underbelly tipper for scrap price and make her in to a really useful toy

good luck

/me (O series owner)

Thanks Fellas, Im actually heading to America for 6 weeks on Sunday, so I'll have to wait a bit before i start the resto, but looking forward to it.

Hi all - I too have just aquired a Model K - 1950's KZ. There are some pics at photobucket.com/BedfordK . It runs but quickly loses water from somewhere at the back of the engine where I can't see - I guess its a 214 cu in 6 cylinder GMH engine (somone at work said "grey" engine?) and has a Stromberg carby.
I'm going to need a few bits and plenty of advice!!
Thanks all

Kpickup - It might be a grey engine, but it's most certainly not a General Motors Holden engine. It's a Bedford engine, designed and built in England. Yes, it's 214 cu ins.
Because Bedford was a GM subsidiary, all the OHV GM 6cyl engines (Chev, Oldsmobile, Buick, Pontiac, Holden, Vauxhall, Bedford) look very similar.
Each manufacturing division was given basic designs to follow from head office, when a new engine was planned. The Grey Holden engine was originally a Buick engine.

The water leak will be the core plug (or freeze plug as it's sometimes called) at the rear of the head, that has corroded out. Not the best job to do. You have a few choices.

1. Pull the head off and replace the core plug.
2. Cut a hole in the firewall right behind the core plug, and replace it through the hole (yes, it can be done, I've done it on old Landrovers). You then need to fabricate and screw a plate over the hole.
3. Pull the engine out complete and replace it.

None of these options are a 5 minute job. Head removal is the recommended technique, the hole in the firewall is the short-cut technique. Complete engine removal is for when you don't want to pull the head off.

The advantage of head removal is that you can grind the valves/do a top overhaul when the head is off. Valves usually need a grind on regular occasions to keep performance up, and the cost isn't huge.

Naturally, it will pay to replace ALL core plugs, when you do the one in the head.

Cheers - Ron.

Thanks Ron - great breakdown of the options that will help me plan the attack :
If I take out the engine I may as well tackle the gearbox issues as well.
I'm no dab hand at a crash box I'll admit. Problem is I am struggling to work out the gear lever position for all four gears.
The shift from 1st to 2nd is impossible! So much so that a 2nd gear start off seems so much easier. Then 2nd to 3rd not simple either. 3rd to 4th and 4th to 3rd I can manage without shaving what is left of the cog teeth off
Someone must know the knack? :

What should I look for if I am to make the gearbox user friendly again - or were they never user friendly?? :-*

Kpickup, im not sure if you have driven many trucks before. But changing gears in a crash box has a lot to do with the engine revs. I was tought to drive on a S line and an old kenworth and the only time i used the clutch was to drive off and stop, every other gear change was done by dropping the revs to about 1200 rpm and with a bit of feel the gears went in, not sure if this is the same with the Beddy K, i havnt even started mine yet.

Kpickup - The Bedford gearbox shouldn't be hard to change, but if you haven't been used to crash gearboxes, you may have problems. The gear lever positions are straightforward, if they are hard to find, you may have a worn gear selection mechanism.

Crash boxes rely on synchronising road speed and engine speed, so it may take a while to get used to doing that. Upshifts aren't generally any real problem (slow shifting is the go, and engaging the clutch in neutral (releasing the pedal), before moving up a gear, often helps.
However, downshifts are where crash box skills have to be tuned up. Shift back to neutral, engage the clutch, rev the motor hard, and then disengage the clutch and downshift. You'll get a little gear clash for a start, until you get to figure just how much engine revving is needed to select the lower gear.

Shifting without the clutch is only recommended for the heavy rigs, because of their weight, which assist is keeping things rolling. The Bedford will give better gearshifts, if you use the clutch.

Cheers - Ron.

K P... coupla things, nearly perfect with the pics, just copy the image code and post it in your post



I know nothing about mechanical stuff, but thought the K had same box as an O which I have and its synchro 2 3 4....

and I also thort if 1 into 2 dont go, you may have an oil issue, too heavy or thick, something about 2nd being reverse as well...

that should get some expert advice so we will both know.....

Welcome and good luck... (I am doing the welch plug too one day... will pull the engine out to avoid cutting holes)

/me

Thanks gents. Now to source some bits!
I figure plugs are a Repco thing.
The brake main and wheel cylinders - I remember a post somewhere saying PBR from Repco but Brisbane Repco couldn't find them in their listings so if anyone knows a part number that would guide Repco to a "yes" I would be most grateful.
Oh and a door handle or two!! Please

Kpickup - I was struggling to recall whether the K series had synchromesh .. but as Sarge says, I do now remember that the Bedfords had synchros on the top 3 gears in that era.
Your gearshifting problems are more likely related to a clutch that isn't disengaging properly.
Accordingly, you need to check clutch adjustment, and whether the clutch plate might be dragging on the flywheel with built up corrosion.

The brakes on the K series are "Triple-Safety" Lockheed. Your chances of finding parts for these brakes are getting slim. I had to go back to a 1965 PBR catalogue just to find the K series listed.

The K series is 2/3rds of the way down this following page .. the individual parts are listed first, then the kit, that contains all the individual parts listed.