1938 Fargo FG3-59

The old man used to tell the story of the great uncle buying a new truck ......the salesman said to him "whats the most youll be carrying in it ?...the uncle says 'four ton of firewood'......salesman says then youll be needing a four ton truck......the uncle says 'what about when I carry two ton in it?'........A two ton truck will do ,and save the extra money.'

John.K, was Great Uncle Irish?

Thanks John K and 14B-Beaver, interesting stuff. I had a look at the engine on the weekend and its looks like it is the original. The serial number is T40-19662 so from what I can find it is a 1937 218. I pulled the plugs and had a look and it doesn't look very good inside, lots of debris on the valves and one of them =seemed to have a groove in it. I am thinking the head should be removed for inspection even if it can be freed up. I filled the combustion chamber with Auto Trans Fluid and left it to work its way down so will have a go at rotating the engine next weekend. You can also see one of the welch plugs has been missing for some time.



14B-Beaver, your comment about it being a 3T is interesting, although the data plate serial number (from the cab) says it should be a 3-59 (1-1/2T) it does have the jockey springs on the rear! maybe the cab was changed at some stage. I see from geoffa's thread at www.hcvc.com.au/forum/restore/15438-rest...30-cwt-dodge?start=0 that his FG4-59 (2T) doesn't have the jockey springs which supports the idea that this truck isn't a 3-59 and maybe is a 6-59!

Thanks for the tyre sizes too. Wonder if the department of transport will know what the standard size was when I go for rego.

Other than looking at the engine I started removing parts but didn't get far. Front wheel are off but the rears resulted in a bent 1/2" breaker bar with some lug nuts not budging. will try a 3/4" next time. Engine and front guard off with some bolts needing to be cut. Going to be a slow job. I'll remember to take some more pictures next time.

Keep it coming Dan.... we like to share your triumphs and tragedyis.

Dont break the studs.....are the rears 5 stud Budd type .....square inner nut,hex outer nut?......or just one hex nut.?.....I assume you know they may be LH and RH ?............Just noticed you mentioned 1/2 breaker ......Budd wheel nuts often need 3/4 drive and a 6ft long pipe,which you bounce up and down on......and the nuts squark like a banshee as they come off.......with Budd style the outer hex should come off first,which frees the outer wheel,then the inner square. nuts....and LH or RH.

Just to endorse John's comments having tried to get old Budd wheels apart quite a number of times.

Big bars and brutality have their place but I would be trying back and forward gently with a rattle gun or if you do not have one, a bit of hammer tapping and Wd40 to get at least a few cracks in the rust.

Also remember although the nuts look big, once the square hollow inner nut is removed the actual studs are very small and as John warned can be snapped by brutality. I have often resorted to heat to help the situation. Even if you get the nuts red for a short time it should not transfer to the studs if you do not over do it.

The left hand threads 99% of the time have an "L" stamped on the end of the inner square nut.

Lang

John / Lang: do those nuts also have a groove cut in the middle of the periphery of the hex? (for LH thread) I think my little Inter does.

Jarrod.

I think you are right Jarrod

Yes they are 5 stud Budd wheels. Can only see the outer hex nut so thought that was all there is. The rims are rusted beyond repair but the centre disks look pretty good. not sure if i can weld them into spider rims or need to find replacements yet. The L and R markings for the thread direction are still easily visible so yes have been turning them (attempting to) the right way.



Bought a 3/4" breaker and socket today so ready to go for next time. Have been using a 2ft pipe. Will take the blow torch too thanks for the tip Lang as I really don't want to break the studs.