1938 Fargo FG3-59

I carry a torque reducer in Lorry for his wheels. With my arthritis getting worse and shoulder falling even more apart I decided it was a good investment. No lengths of pipe required just the simple little plastic box and its contents and the nuts and hex simply undo easily. No skinning of knuckles and far less bad language as can be attested by my neighbours.

DanB80,

As the other blokes have described, there are 2 nuts for the rear wheels.

In your photo with the tape measure, removal of the hex nuts allows the outer rim to come off. The square heads (that your tape measure is touching) are also a nut, and their removal allows the inner rim to come off. So the actual wheel stud is smaller than it appears.

Brett.

Here is a drawing.

A very annoying thing can happen if the outer nut unscrews the inner square nut with it.......The Budd nuts and the 5stud wheels are easlily replaced .......IH 160 wheels will fit correctly.......early 160 wheels will be rivetted together ,and look correct......later wheels are welded ,but the same dimensions............however ,IH used a modified Budd system ,where the inner square stays with the hub.....so IH nuts arent replacements.,unless you use 10 of them.,and 2 IH wheels.

Proven method for jammed up Budd (and others as well) wheel nuts takes two people. One leans on the six foot pole and the other slams the end of the socket with a sledge - the reasoning is the the inwards impact sends shock to the female part of the wheel and breaking the friction between wheel and nut, all the while with constant torque applied. Lesson is to always use a thread lube of some sort on assembly. Also if a tyre shop has replaced a wheel undo them when you get home and do them up at a torque that won't leave you stuck on the roadside.

Mammoths good advice ........and be very careful with tyre shops and rattleguns.......they seem to think any truck wheel nut is indestructible ,and they can easily break the inner 3/4 stud........I prefer to rattle up the nuts to just touch ,all round ,then tighten evenly with the bar........the very fine thread means the nuts clamp tight without massive force applied.............Ive seen all the front wheel studs on a Case backhoe fractured by a tyre fitter ,and if I hadnt stopped him, he would have broken all the back ones too......all cracked thru the thread,but still holding the wheel on.....but not for long.

So the wheels came off with a 3/4 breaker and a few feet of pipe. No damage to the studs which are in good condition.

A couple on each wheel had the inner nut come loose first as mentioned by John K.

Picked up 6 wheels off an inter 160 as suggested. They're the old riveted type, 6" width. Removed a few of the locking rings but no hope getting the tyres off at home.

Got a tyre shop to remove the remaining locking rings and the tyres. Somehow they managed to crack one of the locking rings. Bit of rust but I think they're usable as the lip for the lock ring and the rings look okay.

Wheels cleaned up with grinder wire wheel and a bit of rust converter.

Yes the rims will be perfectly fine. Just get into cleaning the excess scaley rust off and paint them up with a good metal primer and let them dry properly before fitting tyres.

Thats going to be a nice truck......springs are still good ,chassis looks good .....its a dry climate truck,or been under cover .