8 stud tubeless rims to suit 1973 Denning

Thanks PDU

Maybe my measurements are a bit off and they would fit? Most manufacturers don't even quote the stud to stud measurement.

I guess if the PCD is the same and it has 8 studs, I can't see how it shouldn't work.

Not sure if I'm as game as Bad Chad. I do enjoy his channel though.

Cheers

Ash

30psi change in pressure sounds way too excessive to me. It would suggest your tyres are running very hot. Air pressure for a fixed volume of air varies in direct proportion to temperature (measured in degrees Kelvin which is celsius plus 275). So for example a rise in temp from 20 C to 50 C in a tyre with a starting pressure of 80psi should give about 5 psi change in pressure. A rise from 20 C to 30 C with starting pressure of 30 psi would be about 1psi . Maybe check your gauge is reading right first.

What tyre pressure are you running cold?
When was the last time an alignment of any sort has been done or checked?
If your temps are jumping by that much there is something wrong. Too much toe in or out can create a lot of heat as can running low pressures.
Cutting the old centres out and welding them into tubless is a good option but I dont think this will cure your problem.

I have noticed over the years that heat build up is caused by a few things
On a spider hub it is normal caused by the rim moving on the hub, but as these arent spiders then it wont be that

On tube type tyres the rubbing of the tube on the side wall causes a lot of heat if the tyre is under inflated

Scrubbing as has been suggested due to misalignment

Is the bus crabbing down the road after the wheel alignment amd shifting of a axle

Over loading causes a lot of heat build up as well

All of that been said, there is so much to be gained from going tubeless, better ride, better handling, longer tyre life, less flat tyres and on and on it goes

If I could change to tubeless I wouldn't hesitate, yes they maybe costly but they are so much better


Paul

Let me know the outcome please.

I've often thought about swapping the 20 splits to 22.5 tubeless on the bus.

I think the outside diameter is the very close.

Ive done this kind of thing ,I can say for sure you wont find 22.5 rims that are 8 stud ISO..........you also need to understand the important difference between ISO and the old BS type.....that is ISO rims are piloted on a flange in the hub,BS wheels are piloted on the taper seats of hub and wheel nuts.......,if you did find 8 stud ISO s,some modification needs to be done somewhere........the very simplest is to use your coned wheel nuts and screw them up tight ,and check and tighten every 5 miles to establish a taper seat in the wheel.....or you can cut your own taper seats ,Ive used a valve seat cutter in a radial drill .....they need to be fairly accurate as to depth.

Incidentally,I did this to ISO 10 stud 22.5s for my Leyland Harrier.........Also to fit 18.00x22.5 Super Singles to a 4x4 MkIII ACCO.

John,

what do you mean by this; "they need to be fairly accurate as to depth. "

Reason for asking is that I find my tapered nuts deform when tightened into the rim. I think the rim taper may have worn a little. Which allows the nut to screw into the hub and deform. However, the wheels are tight on the hub.


Also, the taper is on the nut on the front and not on the hub. On the rears, the taper is on the hub for the inside wheel and nut for the outside wheel.

thanks.

There are 3 tapers for wheel nuts, 30', 45' and half round. You need to establish whicj one is yours. A simple business card held and fit the corner of the card into the taper. If it fits tight against the taper then it is 45' if not then it is either 30' or half round. So if you have a half round radius showing up with the card in the hole then you know exactly what you have.
I think what may be said about the depth of the raius if you are going to clean them up is do not at any time make the taper break through the back of the naive palate (wheel centre). This means the wheel is not being tightening only the nut against the hub.
In most cases the bore is only a guide to centre the wheel onto the hub, the taper and nuts make sure it is centred. If you stuff up and make the new taper break through you should run a weld around the hole and start again.

The ISO wheels have straight holes,and flat faced washer nuts......without the centre ledge ,the wheels will probably have a lot of run out..........anyhoo,the 45deg seems to fit just about anything....if yoo use a valve seat cutter ,with a sleeve to limit depth of cut,I d say accuracy would be sufficient for wheel nuts...............Ive seen a Denning coach with 10 stud Leyland wheels ,where the wear on the wheels and the nuts was so bad ,the wheels could "work" on the hubs ,with red dust and polished spots .....this was never picked up in yearly Transport inspections.