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Kohler Command pro generator woes

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1 year 8 months ago #236373 by jon_d
Also, a lot of the good American RV generators have smarts built into them. eg: if they don't start generating after starting the thing shuts down. Usually its one of the relays that fails.
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1 year 8 months ago #236381 by Tacho
I had a problem with a Kohler motor on a JD ride-on mower. When cold it would start and run and keep running for a while then cut out. If it was turned off hot then would not restart until cold again. I went through the fuel, spark plug and bad language options and eventually bought a new electronic module off eBay........problem solved.
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1 year 8 months ago #236389 by jon_d
These things or similar are the best things ever.

www.amazon.com.au/Stens-752-329-Inline-I...ester/dp/B001OK8KK2/ (my preference is one of these, but the price is ridiculous)

www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/toolpro-tool...-checker/394392.html ?


You can see the spark and if the engine dies but the spark is still flashing as it runs on to a stop. you know it's valves or fuel.
Or, if the flash stops dead, and the engine runs to a stop, you know it's spark.
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1 year 8 months ago #236390 by Kav
I have a Kohler engine here that was faulty from new. it would not start at normal rope pulling speeds, but if you put a belt on it and ran it with a motor, it would start as soon as the revs hit 800. It would run and pull perfectly once it was started. They blamed a faulty ignition module, so there may be a possibility there.
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1 year 8 months ago #236400 by cobbadog
I have one of those exceptionally cheap spark testers from SCA and it simply works a treat.

Cheers Cobba & Cobbarette
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1 year 8 months ago #236419 by Dave_64
Well, after ginning around for the best part of the day, ripped the carby off and gave it a kerosene overhaul and a good blow through with compressed air.
At least it keeps running now.
But also developed a severe oil leak where the governor shaft comes out of the housing, looks like it has a recess for an "O" ring, didnt have the right size here.
Seemed to be building up far too much sump ressure for my liking, so took the rocker box off, made sure there was no restriction in the breather hose which goes back to the air cleaner housing.
No PCV valve as such, but a little spring loaded flapper valve, lift it up easily enough with your finger, which looks like it goes through the block casting to the sump.
Upset all and Sundry with bad language to the extent that son and heir left saying," give it away" and "I dont need this agro" to which I promptly told him to rack off then!
Thinking about it once both I and the engine cooled a bit, I should have run the engine without the rocker box on, see if the flapper valve was actually lifting under pressure.
Enough oil already escaping out of the governor housing,
See what sort of a mood I'm in tomorrow, all this ginning around is keeping me away from the Kogzbilt!
Just about fitted the alloy tray to the chassis, piccies to follow
Cheers, Dave_64
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1 year 8 months ago #236420 by wee-allis
Your right Dave, you're not thinking straight. I'd think with the rocker box off, any pressure would be escaping through there and not affecting the flapper valve, so it may not flap.
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1 year 8 months ago - 1 year 8 months ago #236423 by mammoth
I recently bought a roller on line with petrol V motor. One cylinder was obviously throwing a lot of oil however it seemed to run ok. After a bit of work it wouldn't pull, occasionaly cut out and then would only run on idle. To get the carby off or even drain the float bowl you have to start mining down (nearly a days work). So far things were checking out. Did that and with the air cowling off just stared at it for a while - the magneto cut out wire goes from coil to coil looping over the vaned flywheel. Mmm that wire is a bit close so moved it up and bingo. The insulation had worn through as well as the wire itself and was shorting to the flywheel depending on rpm or whatever. So for quite a while it had been shorting just one cylinder and hence that cylinder had just oiled up and then somehow both ends of the severed wire were shorting, but not consistently. I can't think of a test that would show what was happening. As a precaution I took the carby to the small engine shop for checkover and clean of jets. Once reassembled the engine wouldn't run. Squirting petrol from oil can showed it was the carby and turned out they had assembled the float so the needle stayed closed! All fixed and pulls like a trojan.
Last edit: 1 year 8 months ago by mammoth.
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1 year 8 months ago - 1 year 8 months ago #236424 by Dave_64
wee-allis,
Seeing what your thinking, but with the engine being an OHV , the only place that is a direct line to the sump is the small drain hole in the alloy head casting to let the oil which is sprayed onto the actual rockers return to the sump.
This thing is producing so much sump pressure that unless the dipstick is secured down, it damn near blows it (dipstick) out of the tube!
I'm no mechanic by any means, but NO way should it be building up like that, probably half the reason that its blowing oil out of the governor shaft housing!
This is the first time I have been able to get it running for any length of time, previously would start and after 15 seconds or so would cut out.
With carby cleaned up will at least keep running now!
Dave
Last edit: 1 year 8 months ago by Dave_64.
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1 year 8 months ago #236428 by cobbadog
mammoth, nothing like takin g things to the experts and have them do it wrong. Install confidence.
Dave, wow, what a challenge. Is there any other place that it can breath down to the sump? It sounds as if your getting compression from the top of the pistons not just displacement from them running up and down. Does it need to have this flap valve?Why can't the oil just drain down like most engines?

Cheers Cobba & Cobbarette
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