Humpty Dumpy is making me Grumpy

I have had this Liner Roughrider Dumpy for a few years now and have my fun with it and now want to fix up both front axle oil seals and move it on. So far it is being a real mongrel to get the hub off the first side and will have the other side to play with once this is done. Took a while to get the brake drum off even with backing the shoes off the drum is located the hub plus each of the wheel studs which have a nice shoulder to centralise the drum on. Eventually it let go and while the Dumpy was on the ground I was smart enough to undo the hub nut as well. So now I have the 3 leg puller on it and applied heat from my LPG burner with a #3 or "C" size burner on it plus introduced my 1" x 8" brass drift and brickies lump hammer and flogged it to almost death. This hub is stubbourn.
I have left the puller under tension over night and now again it is sitting under load but this time I locked up the hub and used a pipe on the spanner to get more tension on it. Hopefully it will let go soon enough. I have no manual on this but understand it is a Salisbury diff and the hub is drilled to Landrover 5 stud drilling. The hub 'looks' like it has a woodruff key inside and at a guess the hub is sitting on a taper and it is the taper that seems to be hanging on. Each time I heat it I sometimes add some Lanox onto the axle and behind the hub to try and draw it in to help free it up. Just now was offered the use of a hydraulic puller so will go and pick it up on Sunday if I cant get it off before hand. If nothing else, it keeps me out of other trouble.

Once heated up get a candle and melt/rub it in so the candle melts
Theory is as it cools it draws the wax up into the tight spots and slowly it becomes loose

Good luck

Paul

Cobba,

The puller could also be putting a preload on it and distorting and binding it.
Maybe try moving it forwards and backwards, slowly inching it off.

A taper with a key.....same as the Inter 1100s...........there is a trick to getting these off ,and it helps if the wheel is left on .......Inter use a hardened sleeve that fits over the thread and up against a shoulder on the end of the taper......a couple of hits with a 4 lb hammer ,and taper is released.............if you dont like the idea of this.....you can also get a puller with 5 arms that fit onto the wheel studs ......the forcing screw has crossarms ,that are meant to be hit with a hammer ....again ,a hardened sleeve fits over the thread ........dont mushroom the thread ,axles are unobtainium.

Had not thought of giving it a hit back on.
Will remove hub nut and see if I can see if there is room to get something up inside to see if that releases the hub.
With that thought in mind early Hyster forklifts with cushion tyres used a tapered collar on the studs to centralise the wheel assembly. To get them out you had to flog the outside of the wheel and rock it, only then would you remove the collars.
Thanks for the tips.

I daily drove Studebakers until 2 years ago - the rear hubs are like this and integral with the drum.
While I have nothing further to add, I feel your pain. It's frustrating, but they will let go. Chinese pullers will often fail, proper name-brand stuff always wins in the end. (as will your usual perseverance)

Jarrod.

I have the same kind of dumpy,and on mine ,oil is actually running out the keyway,so I dont think lube will help.......If you can get at the sides of the taper hub,a heavy dolly one side and blows with a heavy hammer the other will always release a taper.............The Cat 12 graders have a similar taper and key hub,and I have a old Rogers WW2 hydraulic puller 100 ton capacity ,and this often takes 80 tons on the gauge ,and shock from a 7 lb hammer to release the hub..........I have bent a 1" thick steel puller adaptor I made .

Me thinx SARGE :-X had the same problem with his Infernalation
BIDS@BC
U turn the hub and a nother slot for the keyway lines up ........... n bingo ..........Orl Ovr Red Rover
cya

Putn -R-on is easy .....its Getn-R-Off that is the hard part...........especially getn-r- off without bustin-R-axle thread...........I knew a guy with a C1100 Inter with taper axles.........didnt listen ,busted the threads ,like hammered flat..........buy new axles .....no more tapered axles ......IH changed over to flanged axles .....all new parts ,over $1000

Here’s the puller I made for the rear hubs on my ‘34 C1. As JOHN K said Inters have a taper and a key. A bit of tension and a FBH, success.