Humpty Dumpy is making me Grumpy

There is special puller for car axles........lots of oldtimers have them..........they are a disc about 4"diameter with five loose legs dangling off them.....each leg has a hole in the end that goes over a wheelstud,the disc has a heavy screw in the centre with a crossbar type end with hammer pads .....the idea is the do the puller up tight ,then hit the crossbar ends with a hammer to tighten the screw........I use to see these everywhere once ,every mechanic had one.

Tomorrow morningI am going to pick up a hydraulic puller but it too has only 3 arms and instills fear in me about how much weight can the hub take before it makes a bad noise and outcome.
I backed my puller off this morning and removed the axle nut and flat washer to look inside where the keyway is. I have tried to take a pic of what I saw and it did n ot turn out well but will try again tomorrow. It does look like there possibly is a sleeve inside the hub that was mention for the Inter C1100 LT. So I started to make a sleeve to fit inside the hub but over the thread. I guess I will also need to make a slot to clear the keyway in it goes in further.
Got the jobs done today I talked myself into doing so tomorrow back on doing time with Dumpy. Thanks for the ongoing comments.

Because I'm not real smart this probably won't work

If you can get the shoes off and then sit the inside of the hub doohickie on a axle stand so it has the full weight of machine on it
Bung your puller on and do it until you have run out of oomf

Then get a big bolt like 1inch and use it as a big punch with a sledge hammer and belt the bahjeebers out of it from the opposite side than the axle stand
I reckon this might help as thats how I get tappered things apart, keyed or not
Things tie rods etc and gears off shafts
Not pulling like a 16 year old on the end but supporting on one side and a big and repeated clopper from the other side with a big hammer

May be worth a go

Paul

Geez Paul you under sell yourself and ability.
Never got back to this one today. Went to pick up a hydraulic puller which should have more power. I do have a lover inch x 8 inch brass drift which is ideal for flogging things and this is one of those cases. To remove the shoes looks like a lot of fun on this mongrel but if I have to I will. I have a couple of things to try first starting from tomorrow. Thanks for the reply

Swishy ws right about my loader, different but the same, old mate had a tiny 1 inch stroke hydraulic power pack, we made a puller sort of like Southbound, put the power pack under it and gained a few millimeters at a time. No rust no muck nothing to explain wyy it would not come undone. Slipped back together without any force. There was much bashing and thumping to assist the power pack,
Good luck, we can all swear in sympathy if that helps.

Cobba, I would try putting your mechanical puller back on, give it as much stick as you can, then get as much heat into the hub as your little burner will give, the chuck a bucket of cold water over the hub. Just might work,

If it is on a taper, the moment it moves, it is clear of the shaft. That's the way a taper works.

I have the same dumpy....its also leaking oil out of an axle seal.......I park it with that wheel uphill.

Nice one John but that wont fix it.
Well this morning I put the hydraulic puller on after removing the brake shoes. Well they had partly removed themselves because of a broken return spring on the shoes so I nee to find another spring. There was an issue undoing the brake adjuster from the backing plate due to a nut being rounded off then painted over but I won that battle too. Then with the new puller in place I started winding up the small threaded handle and I thought I heard a noise so I backed it off gave the hub a good hard knock to go back on but did not move. So now its time to get serious and put some fetch on this mongrel. I did refit the hub nut incase the lot wanted to go next door and through the fence. As I wound up the little handle it definitely went bang and the hub was against the hub nut and no signs of it being broken. Slipped it off and found that the oil seal is held in place with a sheet metal section and so I undid those 6 nuts and bolts and the seal is in my hand. Pulled the backing plate forward and found 3 shims behind it and the bearing. So I have these to wash up and get ready to put a sealant there as the oil has to pass these to get to the seal. (Pommy Engineering) There is a thin paper gasket between the seal holder and backing plate so I will make another one of them for assembly time. The area on the hub for the seal to run on is in excellent condition so wont need a speedy-sleeve. Brake shoes were spared any oil contamination as the oil ran down the backing plate then onto the tyre. So when in town next I will need to track down a spring to suit a 10" brake shoe and all will be well in the Universe again. On the adjuster one of the sleeves that moves in and out had seized and was why I could not back it off any more but that too is sorted. Winner!

The brakes are Girling ,the same as fitted to the pre war rod and cable brake cars (no hydraulics)

Thanks John, They are quite a simple but effective brake in this vehicle, when working.