Humpty Dumpy is making me Grumpy

Got the oil seal on order now need to find a spring.

thinking about it some more....

I wonder if the hub has rotated a whisker and bound onto the key. So... a knock in the direction of reverse (?) may have helped to release the key.???

Your guess is as good as mine as to why. The keyway has no b ad marks on it and no sign on a burr anywhere to see if it was bound up.

It took a lot of crossed fingers, arms, legs and eyes to get the result. New seal might arrive later this week, if not next week. A mate might have a replacement spring for the broken one. I went to go to his farm today to have the Club rego for out Hino truck stamped but he rang me en route to say he has a bad bug so I turned around and came home to clean everything up ready for assembly when parts arrive. That wont take long to do thankfully.
So in cleaning up the parts I took the brake actuator apart to clean and lube with never-seize. 1st pic is the actuator apart looking from inside the drum area. 2 pic is the back side of the same part. 3 pic is the actuator taken apart, 4 is close up of the moving parts. the metal rod pulls back which moves the central part with the tapers on it to roll the rollers against the slugs which in turn move out.

Next is the actuator showing it all the way in and then all the way out.

Next is the new gasket I made that fits between the seal holder and backing plate. The old shoes cleaned up and roughened a bit using a rasp. The axle bearing and all 4 shims plus a stiffening plate that goes behind the backing plate.

More progress and then a step backwards.
Fitted the new seal into the holder then started using Permatex liquid sealant between diff housing, all the shims, stiffening plate, blacking plate, new gasket and finally the holder for the seal. All went well here and is now locked up tight.
Then went to connect the brake rod and there was something wrong. If I connected it the brakes on that side would be fully on. So I went back to the brake pedal and followed the rods and checking their adjustments and were all perfect so an executive decision was made, cut and extend the rod going across the front of the diff. I never had proper 5/16" nor a left handed die nut to make a new adjustable rod so I bored out a 13mm bit of bar, drilled it 8mm and slipped it over the now cut rod and welded it in place. Checked operation and all is good again the World. Like so many things the first side welded lovely, 2nd side gave me crap but it will not let go. Now I just have to grind it up and paint it. For the eagle eyed members you may notice an elastic band around the slugs on the adjuster, this is only holding them in place until the brake shoes are fitted.
Drivers side is now all back together and tightened up with brakes adjusted there.
Next is that elusive brake shoe return spring that hopefully will be sorted soon.

Mines got the brake rods behind a heavy steel guard,but its still bashed in ........the other dumpies I had all had broken brake rods ,and no brakes .

So it looks like this machine has mechanical wedge brakes ??

Or maybe I have got lost along the way

Paul

Yes,Girling wedge brakes ,exactly the same as many 1930s cars that had mechanical brakes ......a really good setup ,IMHO............there were cheaper copies too ,that didnt have the rollers ,and were made of bits of pressed steel......the Girlings are all machined and hardened steel.