IH Super AWD6

180, Acar told me he and Chris had been over to see you and also touring about looking at things White.
Hope to see you sometime.
Thanks for your thoughts on canned rattles. Geoff

ok boys, hearing what you say, I am up for a glow plug up date, my glow plugs died in my 564 a few years ago now, but I have been unable to remove them from the injector block...( which is why I use start ya bastard) .... so any hints of removing them would be appreciated.


/me

Ron,

The cut out drums work great for points and its surprising how many years you get out of them. Trick is to punch a few holes in them and most importantly dont stack them anywhere near a tree. Wet leaves soon rust them out.
We used to use both bolt on and knock on points and as they were worn out they went into the drums. At the end of seeding it was a nice steady job in the shed welding a worn knock on onto the toe of a worn bolt on if that makes sense. Then you can wear the knock on's completely out and get some value. For a few rainy days work youd be surprised how many $ you can save especially when you belt your way through 600 or so in a season.

Basil

I have an AWD 7 inter and got a locally made conversion for toyota glow plugs and it works well, generally have to put a new set in every 3 years or so, the kit is mostly some bronze bushes which screw into the old inter glow plug holes and a few other bits.

Cheers

Heelerau

Sarge, from what i can remember from changing both types of glow plugs, the hardest part was getting a spanner to fit well and then having room to swing it. A couple of days ago a mate showed me a set of hollow sockets that are driven with a ratchet, but from the outside, (ie socket fits through centre of ratchet head) appearantly they are good for long threads like exhaust clamps or bolts with grease nipples on the head etc. I thought they looked really good. Maybe something like that would get enough positive grip to transfer the effort required to undo them? Don't know if the engine being warm would help either? Good luck.

The secret to removing glowplugs/injectors and other items, that are tightly-bound by years of corrosion in heads, is a good soak with penetrant, before you start.

Diesel with some ATF added is quite satisfactory, but you can spend more money and buy fancy penetrants such as Break-Free or CRC, or whatever penetrant product where the sales spiel grabs you, if you want to.
However, these products are rarely worth the extra money over diesel and ATF mix.
The Americans swear by Kroil or Gibbs penetrants, but I've never seen either here. WD-40 is mostly fish-oil, and works better as a protectant than a penetrant.

The best tool is usually a "deep" socket, and if there's piping in the way, you cut a section out of the socket to fit over the pipe (yes, hard to do with an expensive USA socket, but a man's gotta do, what a man's gotta do .. :'( )

The alternative is a crowfoot socket, which is useful if the glowplug/injector nut isn't too tight. Even the best USA brand crowfoot sockets will spread under extreme torque .. so they are best left as the tool to remove the component after it's been loosened.
Aircraft tools are a good search term, you get some great tools for tight fits with aircraft tools. Also, some oxygen sensor sockets are suitable, they are a combination deep socket/cutaway socket/crowfoot socket.

The last and just as important point is that a rattle gun also assists greatly in these tight removal jobs. The hammering action of the rattle gun works wonders to release tight threads.

OT is bang on with what he said with penetrant...a good soaking. Ive had sucess with building a dam with putty so you you can keep the area drowned.
For the glow plugs and pencil injectors that are a neat fit in the head you cant get out ive had success with getting the holding nut off or clamp then build a putty dam and leave it flooded for a few days then put a bag over the top of the engine and fire it up 9 times out of ten the compression and penetrant will get them out.
You could also try warming the immediate area around the glow plug with the oxy then keep a heap of penetrant on it as it cools down and it will drawn it into the threads this works with pretty good results also.
Patients is the trick.

Basil

i gather u cant undo the nut thingy that holds them in

if the nut thingy duz undo, drive em out with punch and hammer, seeing how they iz pluked anyway

no undo, then remove injector from the body and heat up with oxy torch

as far as penetrants go

try ATF and Acetone, seems to work rather well , the acetone seems to eat the rust away

i tried it out on a badly rusted piston on a IH 660D left it soaking away for a while, wandered past 1 day and gave it a thump with a hammer and it moved ,

sarge. the way i got my glow plugs out was along these lines.
there is one nut that it on the glow plug itself and another one that screws into the housing. once i got the two to undo i wound the bottom one right in and took the top one off, packed it up with washers, wound the top one back on. at this point i undid the bottom nut, pushing up on the actual glow plug and out it came.
if you can make any sense out of that give it a try

Thanks guys, what Mike did will be worth a try, I have actually taken the retaining nut off years ago and been waiting for the bang....

I had an idea that to pull the plug out you screwed the nut in... but what holds the plug tight when before it gets gummed up???

as it is screwed in through the injector block I might take the block off again and get with the drill and grinder .... get the scari and combine work done first though....

/me