Perkins Phaser 180 or 6v53?

Skipjack,

Anyone that knows shite from Shineola is welcome here.

-b

Soundz like SkipJack nose which side hiz bread is buttered on

LOL

cya

Welcome, Skipjack.
You've clearly 'been there done that" When It comes to 2 stroke GM's.

Skipjack, on long posts like this i tend to read the styart and the end - for some reason your posting has kept me (and a few others i imagine) entertained and enlightened at the depth of knowledge on screamers. Thanks for the info, well done and keep writing

hope you hang around a bit skipjack looks like you have a heap of info to pass on, thanks for the expansion

Wedgetail, if you need a book on your 53 series, check this link:

igor.chudov.com/manuals/Detroit-Diesel/D...it-Diesel-Series-53/

I didn't dig into it deeply enough to see if it covers the turbocharge versions.

Another good forum for help on old engines is Smokstak.com . They have a Smokstak Down Under section for Assies and Kiwis. There's everything under the sun on there.

Keep kicking the ol' girl, she'll run some day. My little brother used to say "The GMC Detroit Diesel is the most efficient machine on earth for turning diesel fuel into smoke and noise". (JOKE, Swishy, JOKE!)

Regards,

Mark

Thanks - although I do have an electronic manual and a paper one. The paper one includes turbos, but seems specifically for boats (it covers marine gearboxes, not others), the elctronic more general but no turbos so I think I have it all covered.

Also post the odd thread on 4btswaps in the detroit section but might check out smokstack.

Having problems getting the rings out at the moment, although still haven't tried heat. Been meaning to put them in a vice with timber jaws and timber under the skirt, gently hit it with the oxy then try prying the rings...

I have used trailer acid to clean all sorts of corroded pieces. It is hydroflouric (I think) acid solution and requires a plastic or glass container. It is used in dilute solution with water to brighten aluminum on trailers, fuel tanks and the like. I buy it from the local Fleetpride store, and I'd think you could find it at the Oz equivalent. Fair warning: I have never used it to free stuck piston rings.

Find the appropriate sized container and brace the rod so it won't tip on you. I use the stuff straight, but you could try cutting it fifty percent with water. Cover the piston and let it set. It won't hurt the aluminum, but I don't know what it will do to polished steel (pins, for instance). On rusty iron or steel, it will clean it to factory condition. Wash with clean water.

The stuff is pricey, but I let it settle after use and pour it carefully into a sturdy plastic jug for re-use. Dilute the residue strongly with water. Acids are biodegadeable, but dispose of it carefully. It's worth a try.

Another product I've had good luck with is Cascade liquid dishwasher detergent. It's made by Proctor & Gamble and may be sold under a different name in Australia. I've used it to clean oil and crud out of cooling systems (5 to 1 solution with water) and it works slick, better than any cooling system cleaner I've seen. It works best as hot as you can get it, so a steel container with an occasional touch of the torch would answer.

I think your rings are stuck mainly by electrolytic corrosion, steel to aluminum. You'd think this would have been prevented by whatever oil was present when the engine stopped, but from your posts I gather that this engine was rode hard and put away wet, so the oil may already have been cooked out when the engine stopped the last time.

Try anything once, it might work. I admire your pertinacity in trying to clean up the bits before buying new.

Couple more thoughts: My young friend at the shop who has done a few 53s said to remove the pin retainers, just bash a sharp screwdriver into one, pry it out carefully, then knock the other one out through the pin bore. He says my method is too slow. He also has the little plastic tool to set the retainers and laughs at my plastic pipe connector. He has always used the vacuum pump to test the seal. And when you re-assemble the pistons and liners, buy extra oil ring sets. If you've got 'em, you won't need 'em, and if you haven't you will.

As always, good luck and don't rush it.

All the best,

Mark

We made our own tool from a piece of "Nylon" barstock and just turned a radius on the end to use as a drive tool.
Was used on many engines without any problems.
Vacuum pump if you have it or Kero,Petrol,Diesel or Turps as stated above. Have used the same method to check valve seat sealing. Will also find cracks in heads.
Second the bit on using the right sealant and having no leaks.
Cheers Steve

Did eye read sumwhere th@ mums good spray on oven cleaner duz the job

or twaz it paint stripper

LOL

Butt

WaddaEyeKnow

cya