Best aggressive coolant flush for Chev blitz

After 7 pages, we now get the movie and it's finally obvious where the problem lies. It's the body work blocking the radiator, particularly the battery box.
Steve.

yeah, not much air flow on this streamlined cruiser... Mrsmackpaul - I hope you're wrong, I can't really comment on whether chev did like ford but this engine just seems to want to overheat. As I keep writing and don't actually do (will do eventually!) I will give it a thorough flushing as a last attempt before some form of transplant. Jarrod - fun is at the heart of it all!

Different rocker cover to this Blitz motor. I will try to see when they went to positive crank case ventilation.

After too many years of spanner twisting, I have managed to retain some knowledge from experience. With any radiator, ten or fifteen open tubes will carry enough water to take the full flow of a garden hose. However, it ain't nearly enough to cool an engine. The only way to make sure it is clean, is to take both tanks off and clean all the tubes.

As to no thermostat causing over heating, this tends to happen more with modern vehicles, (cars mainly), with their smaller radiators. It seems that the more rapid flow of water does not leave enough time to cool while in the core. This I have found to happen on several vehicles. The opposite can also happen, as I had a Toyota Hi-lux van and the heater wouldn't work in winter with out the thermostat because it was staying too cold.
My two bobs worth.
Steve.

Hi mate you say that you fitted the original head to another block. Did all the head to block
water jacket holes line up and by extension all the holes in the head gasket?
Just an idea. I hope I haven't missed something and this theory has already been discussed. Cheers

In your video , the engine sounds nice, no nasty noises . Are you planning to fit a army body or keep the tray ? The MLU forum will be good for you , The blitz people use that forum more often than this forum .

The cast iron alloy pistons on those wartime engines can be a little fragile, don't over rev it too much, the piston tops can break off ! The cast iron alloy pistons do have advantages, the ring grooves don't wear ! They can develop loose piston pins and knock at idle . I have a crate of .040 pistons I bought years ago at Corowa, Uptons the machinery dealers had them in WW2 crates . My 216 has a loose piston pin, it knocks at idle . I have a 1940 Chev 4x2 army vehicle , it has 900-13 tyres .

like wee-allis said, take the tanks off the radiator and make sure the tubes are clean. Timing has a lot to do with overheating. Just because it run's ok doesn't mean it is right. The thermostat slows the water down so it cools as it passes through the radiator and also regulates the heat in the engine. Cold metal wears quicker than metal at operating temperature.

mackme wrote: Hi mate you say that you fitted the original head to another block. Did all the head to block
water jacket holes line up and by extension all the holes in the head gasket?
Just an idea. I hope I haven't missed something and this theory has already been discussed. Cheers

Well my memory fails me over that length of time. I assume so... But it was meant to be a blitz block, and hopefully I checked all that. But I'm not pulling to head to find out either!

morrisguy wrote: In your video , the engine sounds nice, no nasty noises . Are you planning to fit a army body or keep the tray ? The MLU forum will be good for you , The blitz people use that forum more often than this forum .

The cast iron alloy pistons on those wartime engines can be a little fragile, don't over rev it too much, the piston tops can break off ! The cast iron alloy pistons do have advantages, the ring grooves don't wear ! They can develop loose piston pins and knock at idle . I have a crate of .040 pistons I bought years ago at Corowa, Uptons the machinery dealers had them in WW2 crates . My 216 has a loose piston pin, it knocks at idle . I have a 1940 Chev 4x2 army vehicle , it has 900-13 tyres .

I'm not that forum too - I guess I could have posted this problem there too. It's just I use this more and thought it's probably more a general engine problem of which there is plenty of experience here... It has alloy pistons - the block was rebuilt in the 50s and bored oversize with new pistons, bearings etc.. My uncle fitted it all up and used it for a while, mostly running a saw mill before I pulled it down, inspected/measure reassembled. He reckoned it never ran right (head needed love) and overheated then too.

I'm planning on putting the tray back on that it had when I got it - it was ex RFS (Hill Top southern highlands), but it's timber and needs 100% (minus hardware) rebuilding. I'm more interested in the civil life of blitzes after war than their original military trim perfectly restored examples which get more coverage. Mine will not be green and is looking like it might not be 216 powered either! All more reasons to post here rather than MLU - I feel if I mention all that on MLU I'd be cast out :dry:

towball wrote: like wee-allis said, take the tanks off the radiator and make sure the tubes are clean. Timing has a lot to do with overheating. Just because it run's ok doesn't mean it is right. The thermostat slows the water down so it cools as it passes through the radiator and also regulates the heat in the engine. Cold metal wears quicker than metal at operating temperature.

Problem is pulling the tanks off the cruiser radiator is fairly time consuming. Id would be much quicker to shove another rad in (the 4th) - I have plenty of cruiser rads that have hairline cracks in the cores which I know cool a working 1HZ or 1VD-FTV no problems, just like the current one cooled a 1H motor no worries. I think I've ruled the rad out just by swapping that many in and out. Maybe the timing could be wrong, but I don't have a light. Is there a better way to check? It runs, starts well with good power and no pinging.

Have you got a vacuum gauge?

For engines with points you only need a 12V bulb or multi meter to check static timing. ( all been in another post on here some time ago)
A vacuum gauge will be a better check while running.