A was for Austin, but now B is for Bedford

PDU
Colour coding is a good idea. I just tried it and will not know if I got it right until I submit this. I just hit preview and I think it works, and who says you can't teach an old dog new tricks?

Try this on fir size



WotSezU?
cya

Touche Swishy ~ even if a wee bit rushed and not too fussy about the background . . . :blush:



Now, can I get back to cleaning up the driveway, ready to move the O type chassis out?
Opps! Just revisited your post Swishy and that does look interesting, and eminently workable.Can't believe I missed your modifications to the centre pin and shortening of the added plate. This would require me dropping the springs, at which time I could remove the two lower leaves to give the spring a little less rigidity. I like it, thanks.

Getting closer to being scrap metal, front brake cylinders plus a bit more to go.

Surely somebody needs the renmants of this chassis?


Lang: Yes, clearer, but if I was to do that the caster wedge would be pushed out as the spring continually flexed. With a u-bolt tightened down onto it, the wedge would be held and the spring would retain its curvature (limited though it is).

PDU,

Smart idea. Well worth copying.

PDU the caster wedge must go under the centre of the spring in the area between where the two proper u-bolts normally go not under the extra front one. If you put it under the front one all it will do is restrict the spring action by effectively shortening the spring. You will be creating a fulcrum 4 inches along the spring increasing the chance of breakage and certainly giving a harsher ride. The whole spring has to be angled from its designed central support point and be allowed to bend over its full length.

PS. Just thinking that if you placed the front shock absorber mount as a rod coming off the very front of the extension plate it would go a very long way to stabilising any rocking action caused by the spring centre of effort being pushed to the rear.

Lang

BigDownUnder

Wouldn't hurt to add a cupla Spring pack bracelets ( just to keep m all in lign n together )
2 on each end of each pak should do it



WotSezU?
cya

I d certainly be keeping the springs out of the other chassis,cause I think youll be needing them.

You're starting to make me feel ill . . .
. . . in the past I have adapted Valiant brakes onto a '36 Ford beam axle, and Humber discs onto an '39 Oldsmobile coil suspension which required changing the upper suspension arms and their mountings totally, adapting the lower control arms to the Humber stubs, and having it checked through the government inspection garage with no issues, and put plenty of interstate miles on both of them . . .
This is so basic, I know what I should do, but at the moment I might just go away and crawl up into a ball somewhere for a few days and have a rethink.

UPDATE An hour or so of contemplation - I revisited the different springs, and mountings, even considered doing a cut and shut with the O type front section grafted onto the M type chassis (if you check the chassis widths and depths they are within 1/8" in width and 1/2" in depth and could be overlapped virtually from the halfway mark of the cab backwards) . . . and then thought, why bother, the simplest solution is to just forget the M type chassis and go back to the original one!! Clean it, reinstate the cab rear crossmember (straightforward as the lower side supports are still in place and the top will align where I knocked the rivets out) paint it, transfer all the good bits across that can be transferred - no problems, no need to modify the wheel offset at the front, and no issues bolting the body back on other than replacing the body mount that was sheared when I got it anyway! All too easy, and so much for the phantom Bedford, R.I.P. :blush: :dry: