truckiejas's fargo ute

thanks guys i will send them an email, managed to punch out the pistons and i doubt that i could hone them back into shape again way to pitted and rusty so ss inserts sound good.

need a bit of advice on this one, pulled the front springs out the other day after noticing that one of the main leafs was broken, easy i thought as the 2nd chassis had the springs still but after pulling them i find that they are heavier duty than the ones fitted to this one, two extra leafs and thicker with not as much curve in them so i cant even pinch a leaf from them, i could just use these springs but i would be sacrificing the ride.
what do you guys recon?

Are the main leaves the same length as the originals?
Perhaps use the main leaves and make a suitable pack from yours.
Do you have a springworks near you?
If the radius of the springs vary too much they could re roll yours.
In saying that though, perhaps make one pack up and see how it looks.
Certainly fit a new centre bolt in all instances.

chocs

well its been a while but i thought id post up the slow progress Ive made.
i had bought a 20 gallon sand blaster off evilbay and blasted and zinc primed all the brake components, front axle and and springs.
i found that what i was looking at with the springs wasn't a broken leaf it is a 3 piece leaf? the two outer parts of the spring joined in the center by a H shaped piece.
now need to get dads landrover out of my shed so i can do some more.
jason

Good stuff mate, any progress is good progress and congrats for doing what you've done so far and posting the pixs too.

Sometimes it feels that you're not getting anywhere at all but it can be a slow job at times. Good weather coming, things will move.

regards david

Good stuff mate, any progress is good progress and congrats for doing what you've done so far and posting the pixs too.

Sometimes it feels that you're not getting anywhere at all but it can be a slow job at times. Good weather coming, things will move.

regards david

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

What Ute253, Just said....

Keep at It, Mate.....

Well thought it was about time i did another update.
The brake components are off getting refurbished, The wheel cylinders and master cylinder is getting the stainless reline treatment as it most likely wont be a daily driver i thought it would be money well spent rather than new seals and honing them in a few years, The drums and shoes are off as well getting new linings and machining, note to self check drums for size before sending away next time, after getting a call from the brake guys that one of the drums was too far oversize there was a panic as to whether i had another drum that was useable luckily there was, so hopefully they will be done so i can get them back on soon and get the old girl rolling.
I found a nasty surprise the other day walking past the shed a river of dirty water coming from inside. As it turns out the radiator had sprung a leak and made a nice mess allover the floor, before removing i gave the old girl a few cleaning runs to get some of the muk out of the block so it didn't clog up a clean radiator, so i have been pulling that out over the last couple of weekends.
On removing it i found that it really wasn't in its best shape anyway, a few solder repairs and silicon bodge jobs in the past, the second radiator i got with the trailer load of spares was dug out of the back of the shed and checked out, not much better the core looks reasonable but the inlet was replaced at some stage with a galv water pipe elbow complete with thread and outlet missing. it looks like i will be going down to see if i can get the tanks swapped over if the other core is in reasonable condition.
we will see what happens when the radiator shop opens up next week, but after doing some research a new honeycomb core doesn't look cheap, maybe a std core will be getting fitted?
Anyone have a radiator to suit a fargo fg or a dodge rc in there sheds? or know a good radiator restorer?
cheers Jason

Copper is worth a fortune these days, I got quoted $1200 a few years ago to recore my Dodge radiator. That was not the honey comb style core either. Just the other day mate had a quote of $800 to do a recore on a Valiant radiator. Just the heater core was $250 to get done. For my truck im looking at going aluminium radiator and just make the tanks and outlets the same as old piece and paint it black.
Most new cars use aluminum radiators these days with plastic tanks for cost over the copper version. Also plastic tanks always fail as they are just clamped on with bent over tabs, so a good money making scheme for them. Weld your tanks on and use a good coolant and change it every few years and you will not have a problem.

If you've got the dimensions you can Aluminium ones cheap from America. I got quoted $750 to recore the radiator on my AR 110, which I thought was reasonable, though it isn't too bad, just needs some leaks soldered up but then I had a look on Fleabay, got one for $200 +$150 for delivery. I'm just waiting for it to turn up.
I wouldn't worry about the gal fitting in the other radiator, if it doesn't leak just use it.
Here's a link to the mob I got mine off.

stores.ebay.com.au/The-Radiator-Galaxy?_trksid=p4340.l2563

truchiejas, nice find, dodge,de soto, and fargo side valve engines had an unusual exhaust note .I loved it when I was young and worked on these engines.
The white binding on the fuel pipe to the carb. was asbestos rope, so wear a mask if you remove it.
The pipe was bound to stop it getting hot and causing a vapour lock in the fuel line. Lack of fuel would stop the engine just when tou didn't need it,(going up a steap hill or in heavy traffic).
Good luck, looking forward to see your fully restored treasure.