Leyland o600 engine

Check any engine you get for corrosion before parting with your hard earned.Take off the inspection covers on the water jacket.In my experience,one of the worst things for serious corrosion damage is to let water slowly evaporate from the system over years.Obviously,green(or red) water is best,but inhibitor costs money,and isnt often used in an old motor.Castings will range from grey metal inside,to water spaces choked with solid rust.Some bore water is very corrosive,and does serious damage.Best bet is a dry motor,even if stored outside with the proverbial sheet of tin for cover.As far as the angst over power ,simply use your old pump,same power from same fuel delivery.

Thanks thats good idvice I was for sure gonna take off the side covers to have a good look in there, I know this bus has been sitting for a fair few years and was running when parked up so who knows whats inside. will the old o600 fuel pump run the o680 engine without any trouble? I'm getting the pump overhauled so I'll let the fuel shop know what engine its for when I know for sure what I end up doing

:woohoo: Get a quote before you go ahead with the pump overhaul. Used to be the way to go but these days diamond cutters see the pump shop as a promotion. If you have stumbled onto a shop with reasonable rates please share.

If the pump was running OK on the previous motor,it will run Ok on another motor.Some of these pump guys will rip you for $3000-$5000 for a pump rebuild.They are cunning,and will separate all your components,so that it cant be reassembled,as a quote job.Heres a typical pump shop;Woodchipper losing power.Pump shop says its worn pump......$4000 rebuild: still losing power.......shop says motor needs rebuild:....$10,000 exchange motor.:still losing power...pump shop says motor is too small:.....fit new 4BT Cummins :still losing power......then the owner asks me..I say "Sounds like blocked filter" ..no pump shop changed filters...I disconnect fuel line and blow back into tank.....not free.......look under woodchip ,find a cheapie inline filter thats blocked.,hidden by woodchip under tank.

That's just the quality of tradesmen we churn out today. I've worked with[strike] 4th year apprentice [/strike] "trade qualified" diesel fitters that can't tell the difference between a mild steel and a high tensile bolt.

DeezelDawg
Gudday M8

Re: Bolts

There R Bolts .......................................... n There R Bolts






cya

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Got myself a 680 vertical (EO680) out of a truck that was scrapped, looks to be a good one, turns over nice and the dipstic is clean apart from the black oil so at least there was no coolant in the oil (well not when it was last running)
It has a 4 speed crash box with it if anyone is interested?

as for the fuel pump we get ours done by WA Fuel injection services the bloke that comes to drop them off (geoff) said I can take my pump and injectors down and he will go through it all with me

Anyway,worm diffs are wrecked by EP oils,not a few more HP.

JOHN.K. wrote: Anyway,worm diffs are wrecked by EP oils,not a few more HP.

What oil do they run in those? We run 460 - 600W cylinder oil in ours at work. (worm type lift gearboxes) I have one 90 years old, still going.

Jarrod.

I use cylinder oil too,but only because I bought some 44s of it from the auctions years ago.Century brand ,I think,but same as Shell Valvata non superheated oil.Good for anything thats likely to get water in it,like tractor gearboxes.I used it in the Coles worm diffs when the crane was presentable enough to run on the road with a trade plate.Its also good for lathe feed gearboxes,as it doesnt leak out.Shell used to make a special worm diff oil called Dentax W.The Coles came with some kind of "black oil",possibly DTE extra/extra heavy.Never use anything called "universal gear oil" because it will have EP additives.Oils with lead additives are OK,but you wont buy them outside of India or China.