1950 Commer s25

Fear not, brake clean will fix it! Once registered, if they tend to lock up, then get the shoes relined.

Jarrod.

Gordy,
You asked if it were at all possible to fit duals. I'm only going by the photo's of the rear hub with the axle loosened. It is very similar set up to my cab over Karrier , (in fact I busted a wheel stud and stole one from a similar model to yours). You may have to go to a deeper offset rim, on mine, the INNER rim sits on the actual brake hub, that 1/4" wide band as per your hub, the OUTER rim is held in place by the taper on the actual wheel stud. The studs themselves, (again if the same as mine) are held in from the back of the hub by a large nut, which when removed, are held from turning by a small pin which is located in a machined slot.
Don't know about yours, but the spare wheelnut I liberated are a bit of a mongrel thread, 18 X 1.5mm in both left and right hand.
Alternative rims can be fitted, if you are willing to gin about a bit. Mine had the 4.5 X13" duals which you have trouble getting tyres for, so went up to 6.00X16 rims (take common 7.50X16 tyres) from a Leyland Boxer. Depends on whether you want to go to the trouble or not.
Don't know where you hail from, what area or State, but there are a few of those old jiggers laying around in paddocks, takes a bit of searching sometimes to locate them though.
May not be a great deal of help, but this forum is pretty good for info and blokes are willing to go out of their way to assist. Never hurts to ask, no matter how inane the questions may seem to be.
Cheers, Dave

A speedi-sleeve and new seal will fix the oil leak.The studs will be some BSF size,probably 3/4".Bigger trucks are 7/8"BSF.Looks a pretty heavy setup for a 1 tonner pushed along by a 4cyl motor of around 50hp.If you fit duals,I think you ll find the overall width is the problem.The 6 stud wheels are easy to find,but I reckon you will also need a dual wheel diff.Measure up before you buy a lot of stuff that ends up as scrap.IMHO,good brakes are essential if used on the road.If you are only going to drive around the farm,then clean up whats there.Not on the road though.

John.K.
just as a bit of an addendum to your notes above, re the 3/4 & 7/8 BSF wheelnuts and studs. I have no doubt you are correct when relating to Gordy's 1950 Commer.
I had all sorts of trouble identifying not only wheelnuts/studs, but various other components on my Karrier (1958 on) and took a few bolts and nuts to a long estabilished bolt man in Ballarat, even left it with him for a few days before he positively I.D'd it as 18 X 1.5mm, which to my understanding is a real oddity.
I had an engineer have a look at my broken stud with the intention of having one turned up on a lathe, which I didn't bother about when I found a replacement with a spare nut. He confirmed this.
I contacted a Rootes bloke in England who seemed to know what he was talking about, he told me that when the Rootes/Chrysler/Simca tie up came into being, that Rootes had quite a few of their components were actually made in France (by the Simca factory) where metric was prevalent, but funnily enough, the heads on the nuts and bolts were machined to either BSW or BSF sizes to suit the English mechanics toolbox. Have to remember that this is nearly ten years after Gordy's model, so perhaps there is an alternative explanation?
Stranger things have happened, often mobs like Toyota used a special size non-standard metric fasteners in some of their transmissions. Also came across the same sort of thing with a VK Commodore where they (GMH) seemed to be using up a lot of old stock before tooling up for the model changeovers to VL and then VN.
All I'm saying is that every now and then you come across something that doesn't fit the norm, could be something like that may explain the difference in thread sizes?
Can sometimes be a bit of a trap for the unwary.
Re the one ton vehicle being pushed along by the 50HP 4 cyl engine, mine much the same set-up, but geared down really low , something like 6.57:1 diff on 13" duals, gave a top speed on paper of around the 35-36 MPH, but for the day and era, probably adequate, also speed restrictions for commercial vehicles at the time.
Cheers, Dave

Dave

I think you have come up with the reason those old trucks were legend as "being able to pull away in top gear". They were not high torque or power engines they were just stuck in what other trucks would call 3rd gear.

Lang

"Could nt pull the skin off a rice pudding" was the nicest thing said about them.Lot of people called em "canardly s" as in can hardly make it over the hill.Alluz remember my old mans blood pressure going skyhigh when he got slowed by one on a long hill and having to go down thru the gears.Red face and blue language.Back to the fifties.

Thanks for the advise
You guys and this forum are great and give's me a glot of confidence when dealing with things
Cheers

Do u know if for the handbrake to work that there would need to be brake fluid in the lines as there is none at present moment?

Update
Lights removed, interior stripped out, started removal of built up oil and grease, pressure clean in and out, truck rolling due to removing brake shoes as hand brake seized, engine running, paint stripping started, new radiator hoses, engine and radiator flush.
Speaking with my panel beater I need to manufacture ne chassis sections due to to much damage from rust.I think this will be a better option even though a lot of work than try to do a chassis swap.