Real world Acco fuel economy

Thanks seed and Paul , I can't get into eBay ATM , I've ordered a new phone because I can't upgrade eBay and others, sometimes it takes 10 minutes just to write a 6,word text , thanks guys appreciate it, jim

Hey Jarod is yours a six cylinder or V8 ,,I've been looking at collerations of shifty bad fuel economy and because these engines are designed to work all over the world which some places I think they run on dirty water , lower compression engines can cope with good and absolutely crape ...
So the bad news is we are still getting 7.1 compression ratio , I'm wondering if a 10-20 though would do anything toward 10-20 comp ratio give better economic benefits, anyover answer after such for any one all already exact mods done, cheers jim

Rattail 1927 wrote: Thanks Steve, it's 3 12v batteries in parallel, please excuse my ignorance, what do you mean by controllers ?

Controller/regulator same thing. On the boat we have two batteries which are selectable as single or both. We have a single panel with 2 regulators/controllers hooked up that charge a battery each . They have diodes in them so they do not drain each other if there is a fault.
The 3 amp panel shown by the others will work well.
Cheers Steve

6 cylinder 282 cube, officially called a 6-281. In my case fitted with the godawful Holley 2110 (but I have it running so well, I have never got around to fitting a WW Stromberg like I should.) Truck / ute weighs just on 2 tonnes empty.
Horrible mileage is with 2 tonnes+ of load.

Jarrod.

Thanks Steve now u really confoose me , I’ll go the single , they got one for$59 dollar for 100-200 CD watts maybe, I looked cross eyed when I left and told him I’d mull it over .... and as for thre 281 with a stromberg , I’m not rocket science and no joe banana but I haven’t heard of one either but I’m only on my first adventure with a petrol vehicle and first week spent $600 odd dollars on a new Holley for mine, made it driveable (used to almost stall every time you took off and same in gears , fixed it and made it driveable straight from the box and went from 3MPG to 9.5MPG overnight and sure there’s better to come , turned out the throttle shaft was sucking air making it crappie to be nice , ive now have a bad driveline vibration and frighten something go boom a, going start on the weeKend taking front jack shaft off in 4wheel drive and same the other end , hopefully just a uni , anyway mate check out the manual or see if u can get some other reference and hopefully u will find some joy , cheers jim

If the rear tail shaft is a multi piece job they need to be phased on some makes

Starting from the box working back you turn the tail shaft one groove for each section following from front to back
This can make a big difference

Not all trcuks are like this so maybe someone can give you the good oil on IH tail shaft plan

Paul

Hi Paul both front and back are multi piece, that’s why I’ve been calling them jack shafts , what I have noticed is that oil has started leaking oil from the hand brake drum , they are wet -wet ... the truck was in gear when I parked it so I couldn’t get any movement plus with it raining here the last couple of days probably wait for a couple of days and try again,and I need 2 pump up the tyre up and swap the front heel and toe on the steer so I’ll grab 2 beautiful flat rubber and that should take the wheel Boyce out of it , there aren’t any wheel weights on any rims , then I’ll check the drive shafts and take a look at the oil coming out the hand brake is cheers jim

To clarify phasing of uni joints - and it is critically important - they must all bend the same way at the same moment. So as Paul says start from one end, get say the front portion spindle horizontal and then every front portion spindle should also be an exact match horizontal. Someone might have thrown the splines on the sliding shafts together any old how and if so it must be corrected. It is not just a case of balance but if the unis are not phased they will be fighting each other and also affecting the bearings in diff and gearbox.

I have heard old timers talking about this and road rangers needing to be timed or something like this, being four wheel drive you only need one wheel to slip and there it goes, wow id never think about this in a million years, collective brains trust, it might not be that but for the sake lifting one wheel be mad not to , when I move one will it put the one behind u move ? I have a shot at it tomorrow my days filled in today but I will do it for sure, it will be out no doubt about that, wheels and mud means one wheel slips and that’s that, thanks guys, I hope it fixes it and if it doesn’t no harm no foul .

Not sure you understood what he means. Phasing is not affected by wheel slippage etc it is that the two universals on the end of a tailsharft, jackshaft etc are in phase. They could only be out if for example a shaft that is splined has been pulled apart and put back 180 degrees out. See below.